Tag: Cloth Hall

Tag: Cloth Hall

Chapter 3 – Auschwitz, Krakow & a few beers

This post is part of a series of posts following the adventures of a man on a mission to explore 20 countries around Europe on a motorcycle – go to One for the road.

Chapter 3

High clouds are clearing a late afternoon sun as supper, meatballs, with chips and salad and a Zywiec beer, is taken alone at a long table in a refectory full of many long tables, all adorned with Easter bunnies and other oddments of Christianity. I’ve noticed today the daffodils and yellow tulips and the cemeteries all inundated by new, fresh, brightly coloured flowers.

Across the hall, a family of indeterminate nationality eat their supper, and when they’ve finished they get up and every one of them turns to mouth ‘bye’ to me. It is the youngest girl who pauses to push in the last chair beneath the table before scampering after the others. I can safely presume which nationality they are not.

Auschwitz

Auschwitz

Up in my room, I look out of the window.  In the dusk, beyond the garden, the road, the land around the SS building, are the headlights of cars driving along the road by the railway line that transported so much immeasurable and unimaginable suffering to many hundreds of thousands of people, and the disbelief is . . . total. Incomprehension, that that is the very same road as can be seen in all the wartime photographs, and the railway which I have been following.  This building is sponsored by the Catholic Church, but I can’t help but feel that salvation for the inmates of KL Auschwitz didn’t come via the Almighty, who had ignored it for the previous four years, but via the men of the Red Army.

Krakow

When I reach Krakow, I go straight to the Saski, an elegant old place near the centre with a uniformed doorman and an iron and brass lift and many carpeted corridors along to my room on the top floor. Here, my tiny balcony overlooks a mosaic of lawns and yards, lifeless except for a weeping willow which trails threads of bright new green life down to the sodden ground.

There is no towel, and afterwards, as I stand on the balcony with the chill April air raising bumps on my still-damp skin, there comes a heavy sprinkle of cold water. I look up to see a pigeon preening herself on a trembling branch just above me.

Medieval market square

Every country has its own ‘must-see’ landmarks, and few people walking into Krakow’s medieval market square, the largest such square in Europe, can resist a “Wow!” when they first see the dreamlike setting for the many historic styles of architecture bordering the square.

As I reach the end of the road the market square opens out before me and I mouth a silent, “Wow” – wow because it’s a stunning picture, but silent because I’ve seen it before and I don’t want to do what I did last time, which was to walk into a lamp post as I gazed around.

Cloth Hall

Cloth Hall

In the middle is the old Cloth Hall, with the two towering spires of St Mary’s church to the left. Straight ahead is the Town Hall tower, while over there is the Church of St. Adalbert, whose foundations are a thousand years old. I stroll a full circuit of the trafficless square, rustling with the murmur of hundreds of tourists going about their lattes and beers.

Tourism

Tourism is Krakow’s main industry, as seven million local and international visitors come here annually, the Poles (the great majority) to admire with pride, the Germans, Scandinavians and Japanese to say, “Wow” at the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque buildings, the Americans to head straight for the Jewish Quarter, and the Brits to make it their Stag Party Destination of Choice, so that they can hold drinking competitions in which the winner is the first to throw up, and athletic competitions in which the stark naked winner runs a complete circuit of the square the fastest, in front of hundreds of international tourists having their supper and admiring the tranquillity of an evening in what was the European Capital of Culture in 2000.

I make my way to my old café, the ancient Camelot, with its rickety pine furniture and floor and flyblown wartime posters advertising beer and theatres. Keneally in his Schindler’s Ark describes how Schindler’s secretary found a basement bar north of the square where he could hold private parties; ‘an excellent jazz cellar in the narrow streets north of the rynek, the city square . . . popular with the students and younger staff at the university’, and I reckon this it.

It’s down a side street, with the 800-year old Baroque Church of St. John the Baptist and John the Evangelist across the road, its related buildings all around from the Eighteenth Century. I find a seat at a small corner table, and settle in to watch the world go by.

Wawel Royal Hill, Krakow

Matchlessly beautiful

You’d think that ‘matchlessly beautiful’ is a sweeping statement to make about a city which is bigger than Glasgow, boasts a vast, scratch-built socialist realist district, a steelworks which when it employed 40,000 people was the largest blast furnace in Europe and whose pollution forty years later is still adversely affecting old Krakow’s buildings and people; and is now Poland’s most important economic centre after the capital.

But you don’t get to be cited as one of Europe’s most beautiful cities for nothing, and while Gdansk, Warsaw, Poznan and Wroclaw all had their ‘old town centres’ rebuilt after the war, in Krakow you get the unmistakably real thing. There seems to be some mystery surrounding exactly how it escaped the same fate as Warsaw, which as everyone knows was flattened in 1945.

Apparently, demolition charges had been laid everywhere but the local Wehrmacht commander simply ignored his orders and went home to his wife, a decision of unimaginable consequence, since the architectural design of the Old Town has survived every upheaval since medieval times, and its almost unparalleled heritage of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque buildings – Krakow, for centuries Poland’s royal capital, boasts six thousand historic sites – is home to more than two million works of art.

Jagiellonian University

I am sitting within metres of a dozen stunning twenty-something girls, which shouldn’t come as any surprise, since more than 200,000 students are studying here in Krakow’s twenty-four colleges, and at the Jagiellonian University (founded in 1364), with its library of more than 4 million books, and Poland is as famous for its young ladies as it is for its, er, libraries.

I tell the waiter that I’ll have three beers while I study the menu; he misunderstands the situation and brings three sets of cutlery with the beers, while I listen to a conversation going on at the table to my left. A young British man has just started work here as an English teacher, which is a coincidence because I have an interview tomorrow morning not just for the same qualification but at the same school, and his parents have come all the way from Watford to congratulate him on his achieving his Cambridge Certificate of English Teaching. Mark is a football fanatic, and worries them with talk of knives, gangs, the eight deaths (eight?) after a recent game, but that “everyone came together at the Pope’s anniversary, so don’t worry.”

Kasia

“Kasia’s name has eight different endings, depending on the context,” he tells his parents, Kasia being the anorexic teenager sitting beside him, with her huge eyes and pasted makeup, miniscule bra-less breasts, and jeans that are slung so low that occasionally they show her topmost pubes.

Breakfast the next morning is in a McDonald’s. There are fourteen others here, three of whom are in animated argument over a newspaper article, five individuals are studying, and one is reading a novel. None is as old as 30, and this is eight o’clock on a Saturday morning. None of my British friends – the youngest of whom is 28, with most in their 40s – will be up for another three hours. The restaurant itself is immaculate, and every single person clears their table when they leave.

The buds are growing visibly every day.  The trees which were black four days ago are now sprinkled with emerald.

I go to a pub recommended by the school. The Stary Port is a basement bar just round the corner, a labyrinth of connected smokey dark rooms. At the table opposite me is a young couple. The boy’s face has deep parenthesises drawn down around his mouth, his skin has suffered bad acne, and a scrubby blond beard doesn’t quite cover it.  His eyes, deep set and brilliant blue, are the only kind of eyes that could be set in such a serious and cadaverous face. His greasy blond hair is long, and he draws strongly on his cigarette.

Whatever is troubling him has his girlfriend’s sympathy, and they both sit, watching the candles and the darkness.  He could have stepped straight into the uniform of a U-boat captain after a long and hazardous mission.  However how important his problems were or were not, he wasn’t putting anything on.  He is about 25 years old.  His girlfriend brings two beers and a plate of chips. He stares and sucks on his cigarette and says nothing.

I conclude that he too has just been accepted at the language school.

A podgy young man returns from the loo, slides forward, his face on his forearms and his long hair falls across the table.  I have already read the slogan on his T-shirt:  FAILURE IS NOT AN OPTION.

Europe on a motorcycle

The next morning, I wake to an ash-blue sky, with the bells of sweet, ancient Krakow tolling the first Mass, and begin to pack the panniers.

Go to Chapter 4

Motorcycle Rental

Top 10 things to do in Krakow

What to see, what to do

Things to do – updated 17 January 2023.

There’s a lot to see and do in the city. Here’s our list of the Top 10 things to do in Krakow. Click on the links for further information or to book a tour.

1. Wieliczka Salt Mine

Wieliczka Salt Mine

The Wieliczka Salt Mine is a UNESCO World Heritage site located around 14km southeast of Krakow and is one of Poland's most popular attractions, welcoming tourists since 1722. Wieliczka Salt Mine is a subterranean labyrinth of tunnels, shafts and chambers, underground saline lakes, chapels with altarpieces, majestic timber constructions and unique statues sculpted in rock salt. The size of the mine is staggering, it reaches a depth of 327m and extends via horizontal passages and chambers for over 287 km distributed over nine levels. Only a small part of the mine is open to the public.

Further information

Wieliczka Salt Mine tickets and tours

2. Historic Centre of Kraków

Historic Centre of Kraków

The historic centre of Krakow has been featured on UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 1978. Packed full of restaurants, museums, galleries and bars, the medieval layout of the Old Town has not changed for centuries. The heart and focal point of the historic centre of Krakow is its graceful main market square, the largest medieval town square of any European city. Most visitors to Krakow visit the market square with its Cloth Hall, the Church of the Holy Mary, Wawel Hill and its Royal Castle, Wawel Cathedral with its outstanding Renaissance chapel, the Barbican and St. Florian’s Gate.

Further information.

Grand city tour through Krakow with Old Town and Jewish quarter

3. Wawel Royal Castle

Things to do in Krakow

Wawel Royal Castle and the limestone Wawel Hill are extremely important historical and cultural sites containing one of the most important collection of buildings in Poland. Wawel was once the seat of Polish rulers, the residence of kings and the focal point of many Polish historical events. The hill is a symbol of the Polish nation and has witnessed some of the greatest moments in Polish history. Many Polish kings have been laid to rest below Wawel Cathedral. Located south of the old town and next to the Vistula River, Wawel Hill showcases an incredible assortment of architectural delights including Renaissance, Gothic and Romanesque designs. Wawel Royal Castle and the Cathedral are must-see attractions and a walk around the castle courtyards and open spaces are highly recommended.

Further information

Wawel Castle private guided tour

4. Auschwitz-Birkenau

Things to do in Krakow

Auschwitz-Birkenau is synonymous with the Holocaust and the largest attempt at genocide in human history. More than a million Jews, and many Poles and Roma, were murdered here by German Nazis during WWII. Both sections of the camp, Auschwitz I and the much larger outlying Birkenau (Auschwitz II) have been preserved and are open to visitors. Everyone should visit Auschwitz at least once in their lives, it is a stern reminder of the horrors that human beings can inflict on each other and the only way to understand the extent and horror of the place and the atrocities that took place there.

Further information

Auschwitz-Birkenau Museum and Memorial guided tour from Krakow

5. Schindler's Factory

The story of Oskar Schindler is well-known since Steven Spielberg's film Schindler’s List; however, despite the name of the museum, it covers all aspects of the German occupation of Krakow from 1939 to 1945 through a series of well-organised, interactive exhibits. Take a tram to Plac Bohaterów Getta, then follow ul Kącik east under the railway line to find the museum. Learn the story of Krakow and its inhabitants, both Polish and Jewish, during the war. The exhibition, ‘Krakow under Nazi Occupation 1939-1945’, is in the former administrative building of Oskar Schindler’s Enamel Factory. An amazing venue, not to mention subject!

Schindler's Factory tours and tickets

6. Cloth Hall (Sukiennice)

The Krakow Cloth Hall dates to the Renaissance and is one of the city's most recognisable icons. Dominating the centre of the Main Market Square, this building was once the heart of Kraków’s medieval clothing trade. The hall was once a Gothic structure but rebuilt in the Renaissance style after a fire in 1555. On the ground floor, you’ll find craft and souvenir shops and on the upper floor is the Gallery of 19th-Century Polish Painting.

7. St Mary's Basilica

Saint Mary’s Basilica is a striking 14th century brick Gothic church adjacent to the Main Market Square in Kraków, best known simply as St Mary’s. The church is dominated by two towers of different heights and is famous for its wooden altarpiece carved by Veit Stoss, which took over 10 years to complete prior to it being consecrated in 1489. The altarpiece has a central panel and two pairs of side wings and is intricately carved in lime wood. It measures about 13m high and 11m wide and is the country's largest and most important piece of medieval art. On every hour, a trumpet signal called the Hejnał mariacki is played from the top of the taller of Saint Mary's two towers.

Further information

 8. National Museum

The National Museum in Krakow is the largest museum in Poland and also the main branch of Poland’s National Museum. The collections of the museum number almost 780 000 objects, with the core of the collection being Polish art. You’ll find the museum on ul. Piłsudskiego, around 500, west of the Old Town.

Further information.

9. Rynek Underground

Beneath the city of Krakow and housed within the underground corridors of the market square, you will find a museum, which showcases how the city looked and felt during the Middle Ages complete with stone roads with potholes made by cartwheels during the 13th century. It consists of an underground route through medieval market stalls and other long-forgotten chambers.

Krakow Main Market Square Underground Museum guided tour

10. Kościuszko Mound

Kościuszko Mound was erected in commemoration of the Polish military hero Tadeusz Kościuszko between 1820 and 1823. It stands 34m high and includes soil from both the Polish and American battlefields where Kościuszko fought. A serpentine path leads to the top with a panoramic view of the Vistula River and the city. The memorial is located in Zwierzyniec, 3km west of the Old Town.

Further information.

FAQ

What is the best time to visit Krakow?
The best time to visit Krakow is during the spring (April-May) or fall (September-October) when the weather is mild and the crowds are smaller.

What are some must-see sights in Krakow?
Some must-see sights in Krakow include the Wawel Castle, the Main Market Square, St. Mary's Basilica, and the Kazimierz Jewish District.

How can I get around Krakow?
Krakow has an efficient public transportation system, including buses and trams, as well as the option to rent a bike or take a taxi. Walking is also a great way to explore the city.

Are there any good places to eat in Krakow?
Krakow is known for its traditional Polish cuisine, with many restaurants serving dishes such as pierogi, bigos, and kielbasa. There are also many international options available.

What is the currency in Krakow?
The currency in Krakow is the Polish zloty (PLN).

What is the language spoken in Krakow?
The official language spoken in Krakow is Polish. Many locals speak English, and you should be able to find people who speak German, Italian, Spanish and French in touristic places.

Are there any good places to shop in Krakow?
Krakow is known for its traditional markets and souvenir shops, where you can find items such as amber jewelry, hand-painted pottery, and hand-woven textiles. There are also many modern shopping centers and malls in the city.

Are there any good places to stay in Krakow?
Krakow has a wide range of accommodation options, from budget hostels to luxury hotels. It's best to book in advance in high seasons.

Are there any good festivals or events in Krakow?
Krakow is home to many festivals and events throughout the year, including the Krakow Film Festival, the Krakow Carnival, and the Jewish Culture Festival.

Are there any good day trips from Krakow?
Some popular day trips from Krakow include the Wieliczka Salt Mine, the Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial and Museum, and the Tatra Mountains.

Adventure experiences Krakow

Things to do in Krakow

What to expect from this tour

Fuel up your adrenaline thirst with this special offer combining off-road quad biking and extreme shooting experience. This expedition includes shooting with specially selected guns from over 30 types of firearms like pistols, submachine guns, various AK rifles, shotguns, quad ride through rough terrain and to end your day roast some meat and sausages while taking a break by the bonfire.

To start the journey, a qualified instructor will get you briefly through safety instructions. Then, hop on your ATV and get through the off-road track in beautiful Kraków's outskirts landscape. After the ride, you can load out your emotions shooting some targets with a variety of firearms. At the end of the adventure, participate in a great BBQ with a lot of food, drinks and beer so you can enjoy your day off even more. This offer will pump you up with the adrenaline you need, and you will forget about the whole world and focus on having great fun in good company.

Krakow Old Town Tours & Experiences

Get your Guide – Tours & Experiences

Historic Centre of Krakow

Krakow Historic Centre

Historic Centre of Krakow – updated 10 January 2023.

The historic centre of Krakow has been featured on UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 1978. Packed full of restaurants, museums, galleries and bars, the medieval layout of the Old Town has not changed for centuries.

Main market square

The heart and focal point of the historic centre of Krakow is its graceful main market square, the largest medieval town square of any European city.

Most visitors to Krakow visit the market square with its Cloth Hall, the Church of the Holy Mary, Wawel Hill and its Royal Castle, Wawel Cathedral with its outstanding Renaissance chapel, the Barbican and St. Florian’s Gate.

Historic Centre of Krakow

Wawel Royal Castle

Wawel Royal Castle and the limestone Wawel Hill are extremely important historical and cultural sites containing one of the most important collection of buildings in Poland. Wawel was once the seat of Polish rulers, the residence of kings and the focal point of many Polish historical events. The hill is a symbol of the Polish nation and has witnessed some of the greatest moments in Polish history. Many Polish kings have been laid to rest below Wawel Cathedral.

Historic Centre of Krakow

Jewish quarter

The Jewish quarter of Kazimierz features a wealth of Jewish heritage with its 16th century cemetery and seven synagogues of which one is now the Jewish Museum.

The historic centre of Krakow was once surrounded by a 3km long defensive wall complete with 46 towers and seven main entrances. Today only a fragment of the old fortifications remains including the Florian Gate, the Barbican and a few towers.

Underground Museum

Beneath the city of Krakow and housed within the underground corridors of the market square, you will find a museum, which showcases how the city looked and felt during the Middle Ages complete with stone roads with potholes made by cartwheels during the 13th century.

Historic Centre of Krakow

Royal Road

The historic centre of Krakow is bisected by the Royal Road, the coronation route traversed by the Kings of Poland. The Route begins at St. Florian's Church outside the northern flank of the old city walls in the medieval suburb of Kleparz; passes the Barbican of Krakow built in 1499 and enters Stare Miasto through the Florian Gate. It leads down Floriańska Street through the Main Square, and up Grodzka to Wawel, the former seat of Polish royalty overlooking the Vistula River.

FAQ

Here are some common questions and answers that you might find helpful:

Q: Where is the Historic Centre of Krakow located?
A: The Historic Centre is located in the heart of the city of Krakow, Poland, surrounded by the Planty Park, which is a ring of public gardens that encircles the Old Town.

Q: When was the Historic Centre of Krakow designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site?
A: It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978.

Q: What is the history of the Historic Centre of Krakow?
A: The Historic Centre is a well-preserved example of a medieval European town. The city played an important role in the development of the Polish state, and many of its buildings have survived from the Middle Ages. The Main Market Square is the largest medieval market square in Europe and features the Gothic St. Mary's Basilica, the Cloth Hall and the Town Hall Tower. The Wawel Castle and the Wawel Cathedral, which sit on the Wawel Hill, are also iconic landmarks of the Historic Centre of Krakow.

Q: What can I see on a visit to the Historic Centre of Krakow?
A: Visitors can explore the charming streets and squares of the Old Town, admire the many beautiful buildings and churches, and visit museums and galleries. Some of the must-see sites include the Main Market Square, Wawel Castle and Wawel Cathedral, St. Mary's Basilica, the Cloth Hall, and the Town Hall Tower. You can also take a stroll along the Royal Route, which is a historical and architectural route that connect the Wawel Castle and the Main Market Square.

Q: Is the Historic Centre of Krakow open to visitors?
A: It is open to visitors year-round, but please check the official website for current opening hours and any potential restrictions.

Q: How long does a visit to the Historic Centre of Krakow last?
A: A visit to the Historic Centre can last anywhere from a few hours to several days, depending on how much you want to see and do.

Q: Are there any special requirements to visit the Historic Centre of Krakow?
A: There are no special requirements to visit the Historic Centre, but visitors should be aware that many of the buildings and museums have limited accessibility for people with disabilities.

Q: Are there any other things to do in the area?
A: Krakow is a vibrant and culturally rich city with many things to see and do beyond the Historic Centre. Some popular attractions include the Jagiellonian University, the Kazimierz district (historical Jewish Quarter), the Oskar Schindler Factory Museum and the Wieliczka Salt Mine, which are all nearby.

Krakow Old Town Tours & Experiences