Category: Cities in Poland

Category: Cities in Poland

Chapter 3 – Auschwitz, Krakow & a few beers

This post is part of a series of posts following the adventures of a man on a mission to explore 20 countries around Europe on a motorcycle – go to One for the road.

Chapter 3

High clouds are clearing a late afternoon sun as supper, meatballs, with chips and salad and a Zywiec beer, is taken alone at a long table in a refectory full of many long tables, all adorned with Easter bunnies and other oddments of Christianity. I’ve noticed today the daffodils and yellow tulips and the cemeteries all inundated by new, fresh, brightly coloured flowers.

Across the hall, a family of indeterminate nationality eat their supper, and when they’ve finished they get up and every one of them turns to mouth ‘bye’ to me. It is the youngest girl who pauses to push in the last chair beneath the table before scampering after the others. I can safely presume which nationality they are not.

Auschwitz

Auschwitz

Up in my room, I look out of the window.  In the dusk, beyond the garden, the road, the land around the SS building, are the headlights of cars driving along the road by the railway line that transported so much immeasurable and unimaginable suffering to many hundreds of thousands of people, and the disbelief is . . . total. Incomprehension, that that is the very same road as can be seen in all the wartime photographs, and the railway which I have been following.  This building is sponsored by the Catholic Church, but I can’t help but feel that salvation for the inmates of KL Auschwitz didn’t come via the Almighty, who had ignored it for the previous four years, but via the men of the Red Army.

Krakow

When I reach Krakow, I go straight to the Saski, an elegant old place near the centre with a uniformed doorman and an iron and brass lift and many carpeted corridors along to my room on the top floor. Here, my tiny balcony overlooks a mosaic of lawns and yards, lifeless except for a weeping willow which trails threads of bright new green life down to the sodden ground.

There is no towel, and afterwards, as I stand on the balcony with the chill April air raising bumps on my still-damp skin, there comes a heavy sprinkle of cold water. I look up to see a pigeon preening herself on a trembling branch just above me.

Medieval market square

Every country has its own ‘must-see’ landmarks, and few people walking into Krakow’s medieval market square, the largest such square in Europe, can resist a “Wow!” when they first see the dreamlike setting for the many historic styles of architecture bordering the square.

As I reach the end of the road the market square opens out before me and I mouth a silent, “Wow” – wow because it’s a stunning picture, but silent because I’ve seen it before and I don’t want to do what I did last time, which was to walk into a lamp post as I gazed around.

Cloth Hall

Cloth Hall

In the middle is the old Cloth Hall, with the two towering spires of St Mary’s church to the left. Straight ahead is the Town Hall tower, while over there is the Church of St. Adalbert, whose foundations are a thousand years old. I stroll a full circuit of the trafficless square, rustling with the murmur of hundreds of tourists going about their lattes and beers.

Tourism

Tourism is Krakow’s main industry, as seven million local and international visitors come here annually, the Poles (the great majority) to admire with pride, the Germans, Scandinavians and Japanese to say, “Wow” at the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque buildings, the Americans to head straight for the Jewish Quarter, and the Brits to make it their Stag Party Destination of Choice, so that they can hold drinking competitions in which the winner is the first to throw up, and athletic competitions in which the stark naked winner runs a complete circuit of the square the fastest, in front of hundreds of international tourists having their supper and admiring the tranquillity of an evening in what was the European Capital of Culture in 2000.

I make my way to my old café, the ancient Camelot, with its rickety pine furniture and floor and flyblown wartime posters advertising beer and theatres. Keneally in his Schindler’s Ark describes how Schindler’s secretary found a basement bar north of the square where he could hold private parties; ‘an excellent jazz cellar in the narrow streets north of the rynek, the city square . . . popular with the students and younger staff at the university’, and I reckon this it.

It’s down a side street, with the 800-year old Baroque Church of St. John the Baptist and John the Evangelist across the road, its related buildings all around from the Eighteenth Century. I find a seat at a small corner table, and settle in to watch the world go by.

Wawel Royal Hill, Krakow

Matchlessly beautiful

You’d think that ‘matchlessly beautiful’ is a sweeping statement to make about a city which is bigger than Glasgow, boasts a vast, scratch-built socialist realist district, a steelworks which when it employed 40,000 people was the largest blast furnace in Europe and whose pollution forty years later is still adversely affecting old Krakow’s buildings and people; and is now Poland’s most important economic centre after the capital.

But you don’t get to be cited as one of Europe’s most beautiful cities for nothing, and while Gdansk, Warsaw, Poznan and Wroclaw all had their ‘old town centres’ rebuilt after the war, in Krakow you get the unmistakably real thing. There seems to be some mystery surrounding exactly how it escaped the same fate as Warsaw, which as everyone knows was flattened in 1945.

Apparently, demolition charges had been laid everywhere but the local Wehrmacht commander simply ignored his orders and went home to his wife, a decision of unimaginable consequence, since the architectural design of the Old Town has survived every upheaval since medieval times, and its almost unparalleled heritage of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque buildings – Krakow, for centuries Poland’s royal capital, boasts six thousand historic sites – is home to more than two million works of art.

Jagiellonian University

I am sitting within metres of a dozen stunning twenty-something girls, which shouldn’t come as any surprise, since more than 200,000 students are studying here in Krakow’s twenty-four colleges, and at the Jagiellonian University (founded in 1364), with its library of more than 4 million books, and Poland is as famous for its young ladies as it is for its, er, libraries.

I tell the waiter that I’ll have three beers while I study the menu; he misunderstands the situation and brings three sets of cutlery with the beers, while I listen to a conversation going on at the table to my left. A young British man has just started work here as an English teacher, which is a coincidence because I have an interview tomorrow morning not just for the same qualification but at the same school, and his parents have come all the way from Watford to congratulate him on his achieving his Cambridge Certificate of English Teaching. Mark is a football fanatic, and worries them with talk of knives, gangs, the eight deaths (eight?) after a recent game, but that “everyone came together at the Pope’s anniversary, so don’t worry.”

Kasia

“Kasia’s name has eight different endings, depending on the context,” he tells his parents, Kasia being the anorexic teenager sitting beside him, with her huge eyes and pasted makeup, miniscule bra-less breasts, and jeans that are slung so low that occasionally they show her topmost pubes.

Breakfast the next morning is in a McDonald’s. There are fourteen others here, three of whom are in animated argument over a newspaper article, five individuals are studying, and one is reading a novel. None is as old as 30, and this is eight o’clock on a Saturday morning. None of my British friends – the youngest of whom is 28, with most in their 40s – will be up for another three hours. The restaurant itself is immaculate, and every single person clears their table when they leave.

The buds are growing visibly every day.  The trees which were black four days ago are now sprinkled with emerald.

I go to a pub recommended by the school. The Stary Port is a basement bar just round the corner, a labyrinth of connected smokey dark rooms. At the table opposite me is a young couple. The boy’s face has deep parenthesises drawn down around his mouth, his skin has suffered bad acne, and a scrubby blond beard doesn’t quite cover it.  His eyes, deep set and brilliant blue, are the only kind of eyes that could be set in such a serious and cadaverous face. His greasy blond hair is long, and he draws strongly on his cigarette.

Whatever is troubling him has his girlfriend’s sympathy, and they both sit, watching the candles and the darkness.  He could have stepped straight into the uniform of a U-boat captain after a long and hazardous mission.  However how important his problems were or were not, he wasn’t putting anything on.  He is about 25 years old.  His girlfriend brings two beers and a plate of chips. He stares and sucks on his cigarette and says nothing.

I conclude that he too has just been accepted at the language school.

A podgy young man returns from the loo, slides forward, his face on his forearms and his long hair falls across the table.  I have already read the slogan on his T-shirt:  FAILURE IS NOT AN OPTION.

Europe on a motorcycle

The next morning, I wake to an ash-blue sky, with the bells of sweet, ancient Krakow tolling the first Mass, and begin to pack the panniers.

Go to Chapter 4

Motorcycle Rental

Kuyavia-Pomerania (Kujawsko-Pomorskie)

Kuyavia-Pomerania

Kuyavia-Pomerania – updated 19 January 2023.

The Kuyavia-Pomerania (Kujawsko-Pomorskie) region in Poland is located in the north-central part of the country, and is known for its beautiful landscapes, rich history, and cultural heritage. The region is bordered by the Vistula River and the Masurian Lake District to the east, the Pomeranian Voivodeship to the north, and the Greater Poland Voivodeship to the south.

Main cities & towns

The main towns and cities in the Kuyavia-Pomerania (Kujawsko-Pomorskie) region of Poland include:

  1. Bydgoszcz: The capital of the region and one of the main economic and cultural centers of the region. It is known for its historic buildings and monuments, such as the Gothic-style St. Martin’s Church, the Baroque-style Town Hall, and the Opera Nova, as well as for its industrial development and modern infrastructure.
  2. Toruń: This is one of the oldest cities in Poland and is known for its well-preserved medieval Old Town, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Toruń is also famous for being the birthplace of the astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus.
  3. Grudziądz: This is a charming town located on the banks of the Vistula River, it’s known for its rich history and cultural heritage, and for its well-preserved medieval Old Town.
  4. Włocławek: This is an important economic center of the region and is known for its industrial development, particularly in the field of textiles. The city also has a rich cultural heritage and is home to several historic buildings and monuments.
  5. Inowrocław: This is a charming town with a rich history and cultural heritage, it’s known for its beautiful parks, historic churches, and the Inowrocław Saltworks, which is one of the oldest and most important salt mines in Poland.
  6. Brodnica: This is a small town with a rich history and cultural heritage, it’s known for its well-preserved medieval Old Town, its historic church and the Gothic-style town hall.

These are some of the main towns and cities of the Kuyavia-Pomerania region, but the region is also home to several other smaller towns and villages, each with its own unique history, culture and attractions.

Natural landscapes

One of the main attractions of the Kuyavia-Pomerania region is the beautiful natural landscapes. The region is home to the Tuchola Forest, one of the largest and most diverse forests in Poland. The forest is a popular destination for hiking, camping, and wildlife watching, and is home to a variety of plant and animal species.

Lakes & rivers

The region is also home to several beautiful lakes and rivers, such as the Charzykowska Lake, the largest lake in the region, and the Brda River, which is popular for canoeing and fishing. The region is also home to the Wda Landscape Park, which is a beautiful area of rolling hills, meadows, and forests that is perfect for hiking and cycling.

Opera Nova

Rich history and cultural heritage

The Kuyavia-Pomerania region is also known for its rich history and cultural heritage. The city of Bydgoszcz, which is the capital of the region, is home to several historic buildings and monuments, including the Gothic-style St. Martin’s Church, the Baroque-style Town Hall, and the Opera Nova, which is one of the most modern opera houses in Europe.

Kuyavia-Pomerania

Castles & palaces

The region is also home to several historic castles and palaces, such as the Ciechocinek Palace, the Golub-Dobrzyń Castle, and the Rydzyna Castle, which are popular tourist attractions. The region is also known for its traditional crafts, such as pottery, woodcarving, and weaving, and visitors can find a wide variety of handmade goods at local markets and shops.

Industry and commerce

The Kuyavia-Pomerania region is also an important center of industry and commerce. The region is home to several large manufacturing companies, including the Bydgoszcz Industrial Park, which is home to several leading companies in the automotive and electronics industries.

Off the beaten path

Despite its industrial development, the Kuyavia-Pomerania region remains a relatively undiscovered destination in Poland. Visitors to the area will find a unique blend of natural beauty, rich history, and cultural heritage that makes it a great destination for those looking to explore off the beaten path.

Kuyavia-Pomerania

Biskupin

Biskupin is an archaeological site located in Poland, in the Kuyavia-Pomerania region. It is an ancient fortified settlement that was built by the Lusatian culture, an early Iron Age culture that existed in Central Europe between the 8th and 5th centuries BCE. The settlement was discovered in 1933 by archaeologist Józef Kostrzewski, and is now considered one of the most important archaeological sites in Poland.

Hidden gem

In conclusion, the Kuyavia-Pomerania region of Poland is a hidden gem that offers a unique blend of natural beauty, rich history, and cultural heritage. The Tuchola Forest, the lakes, and the Wda Landscape Park are perfect for outdoor enthusiasts, while the traditional crafts and historic buildings and monuments of the region are perfect for those looking to experience the local culture. The region’s industrial development also makes it an important center of commerce in Poland. It’s a destination that should not be missed for those who are interested in exploring Poland.

FAQ

Q: What is the Kuyavia-Pomerania (Kujawsko-Pomorskie) region in Poland known for?

A: The Kuyavia-Pomerania region in Poland is known for its beautiful landscapes, rich history, and cultural heritage. The Tuchola Forest, the lakes, and the Wda Landscape Park are popular destinations for outdoor enthusiasts, while the traditional crafts, historic buildings and monuments are popular among those interested in experiencing the local culture. The region is also an important center of industry and commerce in Poland.

Q: What are some popular things to do in the Kuyavia-Pomerania region?

A: Popular activities in the Kuyavia-Pomerania region include hiking in the Tuchola Forest, visiting the beautiful lakes and rivers, exploring historic buildings and monuments, visiting the Bydgoszcz Industrial Park to learn about the region’s industrial development and experiencing traditional crafts, local cuisine and culture.

Q: What are some popular traditional crafts in the Kuyavia-Pomerania region?

A: Traditional crafts in the Kuyavia-Pomerania region include pottery, woodcarving, and weaving. Visitors to the area can find a wide variety of handmade goods at local markets and shops.

Q: What are some popular dishes in the Kuyavia-Pomerania region?

A: The Kuyavia-Pomerania region has a rich culinary heritage, which includes traditional dishes such as kiełbasa, kaszanka, and kapuśniak, among others. Visitors can find many local restaurants and taverns that specialize in regional cuisine.

Q: How can I get to the Kuyavia-Pomerania region?

A: The Kuyavia-Pomerania region is located in north-central Poland. The main city of the region is Bydgoszcz, which can be reached by train or bus from other major cities in Poland. The region is also easily accessible by car and has good road connections.

Q: Are there any national parks in the Kuyavia-Pomerania region?

A: Yes, the Tuchola Forest is one of the main attraction of the Kuyavia-Pomerania region, it’s a national park and it’s one of the largest and most diverse forests in Poland. The forest is a popular destination for hiking, camping, and wildlife watching.

Torun Tours & Attractions

Sanctuary of the Holy Cross Wood Relic

Holy Cross Wood Relic – Updated 16 January 2023.

Holy Cross Wood Relic

The Sanctuary of the Holy Cross Wood Relic, also known as the Sanctuary of the Holy Cross, is a religious site located in Kielce, Poland. It is home to a relic of the True Cross, which is a piece of wood said to be from the cross upon which Jesus was crucified. The relic was brought to Kielce in the 12th century by the bishop of Krakow, Iwo Odrowąż.

The sanctuary is a popular pilgrimage site, and it is visited by thousands of people each year. The Sanctuary of the Holy Cross is also home to a church, which was built in the 18th century, and the church features a unique baroque architecture. The relic of the True Cross is kept in the main altar of the church. There is also a museum on the site, which provides information about the history of the relic and the sanctuary.

Healing powers

The Sanctuary of the Holy Cross Wood Relic is considered one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Poland, and it is also a significant historical and cultural landmark in the region. The relic is believed to have healing powers, and it is said to be particularly effective in the treatment of eye diseases, and the Sanctuary is also visited by people seeking spiritual healing.

The Sanctuary of the Holy Cross Wood Relic is open to visitors all year round, and it can be accessed by foot or by car. Guided tours of the sanctuary and its museum are also available.

Święty Krzyż mountain

The Sanctuary of the Holy Cross Wood Relic and Museum of the Missionary Oblates of the Virgin Mary are located on Łysiec mountain, nowadays referred to as Święty Krzyż mountain.

Witchcraft and hellish parties

Święty Krzyż (Mount Holy Cross) is the second highest mountain in the region at 595m. If you believe local folk legend, the mountain was especially liked by witches and during their Sabbaths, they practised witchcraft and organised hellish parties and dances on the summit.

Pilgrims

Every year, the Holy Cross Sanctuary is visited by crowds of pilgrims, visitors and tourists, who want to see this unique place. In the church on the mountain you can see a valuable painting of Franciszek Smuglewicz, monastery porches, a sacristy, the Oleśnicki family’s chapel and the Museum of the Missionary Oblates of the Virgin Mary.

500 million years old

The Świętokrzyskie Mountains are not particularly high; however they are ancient. Quartzite has been discovered in the area that is 500 million years old. The highest peak is Mount Łysica at 614 m and is located within the Świętokrzyski National Park.

Holy Cross Province (Swietokrzyskie) is located in south eastern Poland and has the city of Kielce as its regional capital. Often referred to as, “The heart of Poland.”

Kielce

With a history dating back over 900 years, Kielce was once an important mining centre, today, the city and its surroundings are better known for their historic architecture, green spaces and recreational areas like the Świętokrzyski National Park and the Kadzielnia Reserve. Kielce is the only city in Europe which counts five nature reserves within its borders.

Attractions

There’s a lot of attractions to see in Kielce. The former Palace of the Kraków Bishops, the picturesque National Museum, Kielce Cathedral, and Dworek Laszczyków are must-sees.

Kadzielnia Reserve Kielce

Kadzielnia Reserve – Updated 16 January 2023.

Popular tourist spot

The Kadzielnia Reserve is a nature reserve located in Kielce, Poland. It is situated in the Kadzielnia quarry, which is a limestone quarry that is no longer in use. The reserve is known for its unique geological formations and diverse wildlife, including rare species of birds and bats. The quarry is also a popular spot for rock climbing and hiking. The reserve also includes a geological museum which shows how the quarry was formed and how it was used over the years. It is a popular tourist spot in the region.

The former quarry attracts visitors interested in music, extreme experiences such as ziplining and also geology enthusiasts.

Limestone

It is located on a hill as part of the Kadzielnia Range and is 295m above sea level. As a quarry back in the 18th century, it was a significant source of limestone, which was required primarily for road construction and you can still find traces of mining activity around the area.

Geologists Rock

In the centre is the Geologists Rock and this is protected as part of the Kadzielnia Nature Reserve and is not open to tourists, instead visitors admire the rock from the surrounding paths and viewpoints surrounding the quarry.

Attractions

You’ll find a number of attractions in Kadzielnia such as the underground tourist route, the amphitheatre, a zip-line station and a waterfall.

Fossils

Kadzielnia is very popular with palaeontologists and geologists who come to the area in search of fossils. Many different fossils have been found including sponges, corals, daylilies, brachiopods and snails.

Caves

Kadzielnia is also home to 25 caves. There are three caves open to the public and this is where you can find the 140m long underground tourist route.

Amphitheater

The Kadzielnia Amphitheater is one of the most unique and beautiful stages in the country. The surrounding rocks provide a natural backdrop and also enhance the acoustics. The amphitheatre has operated for more than 50 years and underwent a thorough modernisation in 2010, today it can seat as many as 5,430 spectators. During inclement weather, the stage and auditorium is covered with a retractable roof.

Kadzielnia Amphitheater

The amphitheater hosts large, modern artistic shows and concerts, among them the cult “pinwheel”, the International Scout Festival of School Youth Culture and the annual Kielce Festival.

Kadzielnia Rope Park

There’s much more to Kadzielnia than a concert among the rocks, exploring the caves and the amazing views. Thrill-seekers come to the area to admire the scenery from a height of 40m during a free rope descent. The Kadzielnia Rope Park includes three descents.

Every year, the Kadzielnia Sport Festival is hosted in the area and attracts extreme sports enthusiasts from near and afar.

Living in Poland

Living in Poland: A Guide for Expats

Poland is a beautiful country located in Central Europe, known for its rich history, stunning architecture, and delicious cuisine. If you're thinking about moving to Poland, you're in for a treat! The country offers a high quality of life, low cost of living, and a welcoming community of expats.

Living in Poland

Cost of living

One of the biggest draws of living in Poland is the cost of living. The country is relatively inexpensive compared to other European countries, and you'll be able to stretch your budget further here. Rent, groceries, and transportation are all relatively affordable. Additionally, the healthcare system in Poland is of a high quality and is considered to be one of the best in Europe.

Housing:
The cost of housing in Poland varies depending on the location and type of accommodation. In cities like Warsaw and Krakow, you can expect to pay around $500 – $800 per month for a one-bedroom apartment in the city center. In smaller cities and towns, the cost of housing is generally lower, with prices ranging from $300 to $500 per month.

Living in Poland

Food:
The cost of food in Poland is also relatively low. A meal in a mid-range restaurant will cost around $10 – $15, while a basic meal in a local restaurant or street food can be as low as $5. Grocery shopping is also inexpensive, with the average cost of a basic basket of goods coming in at around $50.

Transportation:
Poland has an efficient and inexpensive public transportation system, with bus, train, and metro services available in most cities. A monthly public transportation pass in Warsaw costs around $50, while a one-way ticket is around $1.5. Taxis are also relatively cheap, with an average fare of around $5 for a short trip.

Healthcare:
Poland has a well-developed healthcare system, and healthcare is affordable for both locals and expats. You can expect to pay around $20 – $30 for a visit to a general practitioner, while a visit to a specialist will cost around $50. Prescription drugs are also relatively inexpensive, with the average cost of a generic drug coming in at around $5.

Entertainment:
Poland offers a wide range of entertainment options, from museums and historical sites to theaters, cinemas, and nightclubs. The cost of entertainment varies depending on the activity, but you can expect to pay around $10 – $15 for a movie ticket, and $5 – $10 for a drink in a bar or club.

Overall, the cost of living in Poland is relatively low compared to Western European countries. Expats can expect to live comfortably on a budget of around $1,500 – $2,000 per month, including housing, food, transportation, healthcare, and entertainment. It's worth noting that the cost of living may vary depending on your lifestyle and location.

Living in Poland

Culture

The culture in Poland is rich and diverse. The country has a long history, and you'll be able to explore it through the many museums and historical sites. Additionally, Poland is known for its beautiful architecture, including the colorful Old Towns of Krakow and Gdansk. The country also has a vibrant food scene, with traditional dishes such as pierogi and bigos being particularly popular. The country is also home to several UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Learning Polish

Poland is also a great place to learn a new language. The official language is Polish, and while it can be challenging to learn, it is also a beautiful and expressive language. There are many language schools and language exchange programs available for those who are interested in learning – see Polish language for tourists.

Expat community

The city has a diverse population and a growing expat community, which includes professionals working in various industries, students, and retirees.

The expat community in Warsaw is relatively small compared to other major European cities, but it's still a diverse and active group. Many expats in Warsaw are employed in the IT, finance, and consulting industries, but there are also many opportunities for professionals in other fields such as education and healthcare. There are also a significant number of expat students who come to study at one of the city's universities.

There are several expat groups and organizations in Warsaw that provide a sense of community and support for newcomers. These groups organize social events, meetups, and activities, and provide a platform for expats to network and share information.

The city also has a wide range of international restaurants, shops, and supermarkets that cater to the expat community, as well as international schools and a vibrant cultural scene with a variety of art galleries, museums, and theaters.

In terms of living conditions, Warsaw offers a good quality of life and a wide range of housing options, from trendy apartments in the city center to more affordable options in the suburbs. The public transportation system is also efficient and affordable.

Overall, Warsaw is a great place for expats to live and work, offering a diverse and growing expat community, a variety of job opportunities, a vibrant cultural scene, and a good quality of life. As with any new place, it may take some time to adjust and feel comfortable, but with the help of the expat community, it will be easier.

It's worth noting that the above information is general in nature and may not be accurate or up-to-date. It's always a good idea to research and confirm details before making any decisions. Additionally, the expat community and living conditions can change over time, so it's always a good idea to check for the most recent information.

Weather

Poland has a four-season climate with cold winters and mild summers. In winter, temperatures can drop as low as -20°C and snowfall is common, so make sure you have warm clothing. See a 7 day weather forecast for the major cities in Poland.

Safety

Poland is a safe country to live in, with low crime rates and friendly people.

Overall, Poland is an excellent choice for expats. The country offers a high quality of life, low cost of living, and a welcoming community.

Poland tours & experiences

Warsaw Expat Pubs & Bars

Expat bars in Warsaw

Expat bars in Warsaw – updated 24 September 2022

Usually, one of the first things the newly arrived do is seek out the expat bars in Warsaw. It's a good way to make friends, learn the ropes from those who have lived and worked in the city for a while, enjoy some food from home and socialise.

The hospitality industry in Warsaw is very competitive. Rates are not cheap, especially around the city’s hotspots, so it’s not unusual to see bars open with a flourish of advertising activity one month – to then close down just a few months later.

If you talk to any of the British, Irish or American expats who have lived in Warsaw for a while, they will tell you outrageous yarns of legendary expat bars of the past such as Bar Below, Bradley’s Bar and Tortilla Factory. Those that are even older will reminisce about the hotel bars, which in fact were once the only safe place for expats to get a drink 30 years ago.

But that’s all irrelevant, then was then and now is now!

Nowadays, there really isn’t very much on offer in regard to a true, traditional expat bar with the one exception of Legends Bar at Emilii Plater 25, just a short stumble from the Marriot Hotel.

If an expat bar is where expats go to drink on a regular basis, then Legends ticks the box. The owners are Beata who is Polish and Graham who is from Liverpool, he’s an Evertonian who likes his football – reason number two why it’s an expat bar – you can watch the footie there.

Reason number 3 would be that they serve British grub such as steak and kidney pie with mashed potatoes and onion gravy, they also do a full English breakfast, fish & chips and other pub favourites.

Legends is a favourite with expats and locals alike, it’s not very big and can get crowded if there’s a good match on the telly or on quiz night, which happens on a Friday once every month.

There are usually a few British draught beers on offer in bottles in addition to draft Guinness and local lagers. The only drinks they don’t serve are cocktails, if you want Sex on the Beach – there’s plenty of cocktail bars a short walk away.

If you're in Warsaw and fancy a pint and a bite to eat, then Legends is highly recommended.

Warsaw Old Town Tours & Experiences

Top 10 things to do in Wrocław

What to see, what to do

Things to do – updated 17 January 2023.

There’s a lot to see and do in the city. Here’s our list of the Top 10 things to do in Wrocław. Click on the links for further information or to book a tour & buy tickets.

1. Wrocław Dwarfs

They’re referred to in Poland as dwarfs but they’re actually bronze gnomes around 20-30cm tall, which have been appearing in the streets of Wrocław since 2005. Today, there are hundreds of them, almost an invasion and they’ve become a major tourist attraction. You can even get maps and mobile apps to help you find them.

2. Old Town Hall

The 13th century Gothic Old Town Hall stands at the centre of the city’s Market Square and is one of the main landmarks of the city. It’s currently used for civic and cultural events, which are held in its Great Hall and also houses the Museum of Bourgeois Art and a restaurant in the basement. The structure is a mix of architectural styles with both Gothic and Renaissance features. The astronomical clock is made of larch wood and was built in 1580.

3. National Museum

The National Museum is one of Poland’s main branches of the National Museum system. It holds one of the largest collections of contemporary art in the country. You’ll find exhibits of Medieval sculpture on the ground floor in addition to paintings from the region, silverware, ceramics and furnishings. Polish art, primarily 17th century paintings, can be found on the 2nd floor.

Further information.

4. Panorama of Racławice

The Racławice Panorama is a monumental (15m x 114m) cycloramic painting depicting the Battle of Racławice, during the Kościuszko Uprising and is Wrocław’s pride and joy. It is wrapped around the internal walls of a purpose-built rotunda. The painting took nine artists, nine months to complete and used 750kg of paint. Visits are by guided audio tours, departing every half hour.

Skip-the-Line Panorama Raclawicka, National Museum and Ostrow Tumski tour

5. Church of the Holy Name of Jesus

This Late Baroque-Rococo church is part of Wrocław University and is one of the most picturesque in the city, if not the country. We can thank the Jesuits for this piece of architectural beauty, they built it way back in the 1690s on the site of the former Piast castle. The interior of the church has been painted to imitate marble and contains frescoes & ornate fittings.

Further information.

6. Botanical Gardens

You’ll find the Botanical Gardens on Cathedral Island. The gardens were built between 1811 – 1816 and are part of the University of Wrocław. Within the gardens, there is a large selection of plants, sculptures, aquariums, a large pond, bridges, a shop, and a café. The gardens are open from early April until mid-November.

Further information.

7. Wrocław Zoo

The Zoo is located on Wróblewskiego Street and is the oldest zoo in the country, opened in 1865. In terms of the number of animal species, it is the third largest zoological garden in the world and the largest in Poland. It is home to about 10,500 animals representing about 1,132 species.

Wroclaw Zoo tickets with private transportation

Further information.

8. Hansel & Gretel

One of Wrocław’s favourite photo opportunities, are two charming, skinny tenements known locally as Jaś i Małgosia, better known to German and English speakers as Hansel and Gretel. You’ll find them on the north-western corner of the Market Square. The two fairy tale houses are linked by a baroque archway built in 1728.

9. Church of St Elizabeth

St. Elizabeth’s Church of the Catholic Third Order of Saint Francis is a 14th century Gothic church and one of the most iconic structures of the city’s Old Town panorama. It has a 90m high tower, a triple nave and is by medieval chapels. Inside, you’ll find a mid-15th-century sacramentary and carved medieval choir stalls.

10. Archaeological Museum

This museum is housed inside of the city’s former 15th century Arsenal alongside the Military Museum. Exhibits focus on the period from the Stone Age to the 19th century. You’ll find everyday objects from these times such as tools, ornaments and weapons.

Further information.

FAQ

Q: What is the best time to visit Wroclaw?
A: The best time to visit Wroclaw is during the spring and summer months, when the weather is mild and the city’s many parks and gardens are in full bloom. However, Wroclaw is also a destination that can be enjoyed year-round, with a variety of events and activities taking place throughout the year.

Q: How do I get to Wroclaw?
A: The main airport is Copernicus Airport Wrocław, which is well connected to other major airports in Europe, and from there you can take a bus or taxi to the city center. Alternatively, Wroclaw is also well connected to other parts of Poland by train and bus.

Q: What are the must-see attractions in Wroclaw?
A: Some of the must-see attractions in Wroclaw include the Old Town, the Wroclaw Market Square, the Town Hall, the Wroclaw Cathedral, the Centennial Hall, the National Museum, and the Panorama of Racławice.

Q: Are there any good restaurants or bars in Wroclaw?
A: Wroclaw is known for its excellent dining scene, with a wide variety of restaurants and bars to choose from, serving both traditional Polish cuisine and international dishes. Some popular options include local pubs, called “Piwnica” and trendy Restaurants.

Q: Is it easy to get around Wroclaw?
A: Wroclaw is a relatively small and compact city, making it easy to get around on foot. The city center is also well served by public transportation, including buses and trams, making it easy to reach all of the city’s main attractions.

Q: Are there any festivals or events happening in Wroclaw during my visit?
A: Wroclaw is a city that is known for its lively cultural scene, with a variety of events and festivals taking place throughout the year, including the Wroclaw Film Festival, the Wratislavia Cantans and the Wroclaw Shakespeare Festival. It’s a good idea to check the city’s calendar of events before your visit to see what’s happening during your stay.

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Top 10 things to do in Warsaw

What to see, what to do

Things to do – updated 17 January 2023.

There’s a lot to see and do in the city. Here’s our list of the Top 10 things to do in Warsaw. Click on the links for further information or to book a tour.

1. POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews

This fascinating historical museum presents over 1,000 years of Jewish life in Poland. It allows visitors to explore past and present Jewish culture, providing a counterpoint to the stereotypes, xenophobia, and nationalistic prejudice threatening today’s societies. POLIN promotes openness, tolerance, and truth, contributing to the mutual understanding and respect between Polish and Jewish people.

Further information & book tickets

2. Wilanów Palace

Wilanów Palace is a former royal palace located 10km south of the city centre. It’s managed to survive Poland’s partitions and two World Wars and is one of Poland’s most important monuments. It was commissioned by King Jan III Sobieski in 1677 and serves as a reminder of the culture of the Polish state as it was before the misfortunes of the 18th century. The palace is one of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions.

3. Palace of Culture & Science

Love it or hate it, you can’t not see it. At 237m tall, it’s the second tallest building in Poland after Varso Tower. Since 1955, this socialist realist palace has dominated the city of Warsaw and today it houses various public and cultural institutions such as cinemas, theatres, libraries, sports clubs, university faculties and authorities of the Polish Academy of Sciences. Known as PKiN (the abbreviation of its full Polish name) and a lot of other less friendly names, the palace was a gift of friendship from the Soviet Union. Check out the 30th floor observation terrace for great views of the city.

4. Royal Castle

Royal Castle Warsaw is an exceptional copy of the original red-brick castle, which was destroyed by the Germans in WWII. The very first version of the castle was actually a wooden stronghold dating back to the 14th century built for the dukes of Mazovia and since then it has been the residence of Polish kings in addition to being the home of the president and also the seat of parliament. Back in the 17th century Royal Castle Warsaw was one of the most splendid royal palaces in Europe and today; it is filled with authentic furniture from that period and many original works of art. The highlights of the tour are the Great Apartments, which includes the Great Assembly Hall and lavishly decorated Throne Room and the King’s Apartments.

Further information

Lazienki Palace

5. Lazienki Park & Palace

Lazienki Palace is located in the beautiful Łazienki Park in Warsaw. This is the biggest and most popular park in the city, and it provides visitors with many things to explore. During a walk around the 76 hectares park, you’ll see the Art Nouveau Chopin monument, a classicist amphitheatre, summer houses, pavilions, cafes & restaurants, lakes, the English garden, an Old Orangery, palaces and much more. There’s so much to see that it is possible to spend the full day in the park. Lazienki Palace is a lovely neoclassical building originally built in the 17th century and is the former residence of King Stanisław August Poniatowski who was a great patron of the arts.

Further information

6. Historic Centre of Warsaw

The Historic Centre of Warsaw (Warsaw Old Town) is the oldest part of Warsaw. The heart of the area is the Old Town Market Place, which is very popular with tourists and contains many restaurants, cafés, bars and shops. Surrounding streets feature medieval architecture such as the city walls, St. John’s Cathedral and the Barbican which links the Old Town with Warsaw New Town. In excess of 85% of the historic centre of Warsaw was deliberately destroyed during World War II by Nazi Germany. A meticulous restoration of the Old Town took place after the war and this included its important religious buildings, the Royal Castle, Old Town Market, townhouses, and the circuit of the city walls. It is an outstanding example of a near-total reconstruction of a span of history covering the 13th to the 20th century.

Further information.

7. Żabińskis’ Villa

The story of Jan and Antonina Zabinski is one of extraordinary bravery, decency and humanitarian spirit at enormous personal risk in the most challenging circumstances possible. The largely accurate portrayal captured in Diane Ackerman’s book and subsequent 2017 Hollywood movie, The Zookeeper’s Wife, reached millions. But a great many more remain completely unaware of the extraordinary tale of personal heroism, bravery and human kindness that took place within the grounds of Warsaw Zoo during World War II, and their enormous legacy and lessons for wider humanity in rescuing more than 300 people, mostly Jews smuggled out of the Warsaw Ghetto, at enormous personal risk. Even fewer are aware that the little zookeeper’s villa at the centre of the story, in the middle of the Warsaw Zoo, still stands today. A powerful but hidden and relatively neglected symbol of human unity and shared purpose, cared for over the years by a small group of people associated with the zoo and with the Zabinski family, on something less than a shoe-string budget. The villa, where the Żabińskis lived and risked their lives by hiding Jews, is open for a guided tour, which is well worth doing.

8. Warsaw Rising Museum

The single largest military effort taken by any European resistance movement during World War II happened during the Warsaw Uprising, which was fought for 63 days with little outside support. The Uprising was led by the Polish Resistance Home Army in an attempt to liberate Warsaw from German occupation. If you are ever in Warsaw, a visit to the Rising Museum is highly recommended. The museum traces the history of the doomed Uprising using personal accounts, photos, film and interactive displays. If you want to do the museum and surrounding Freedom Park justice, you’ll need to put aside a whole day.

Further information.

Teatr Wielki

Image: Teatr Wielki

9. Teatr Wielki

The Grand Theatre is a theatre and opera complex situated on the historic Theatre Square. It is home to the Polish National Opera and Ballet companies and is one of the largest theatrical venues in the world, with a seating capacity of over 2,000. The building was destroyed during WWII and rebuilt to the original design in 1965.

Further information.

10. Copernicus Science Centre

Copernicus Science Centre is a science museum standing on the bank of the Vistula River containing over 450 interactive exhibits that enable visitors to single-handedly carry out experiments and discover the laws of science for themselves. The Centre is the largest institution of its type in Poland and one of the most advanced in Europe. In 2018, since its opening, it had been visited by over 8 million people.

Further information.

Warsaw Tours & Experiences

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Top 10 things to do in Tri-City

What to see, what to do

Things to do – updated 17 January 2023.

There’s a lot to see and do in the city. Here’s our list of the Top 10 things to do in Tri-City. Click on the links for further information or to book a tour.

1. Museum of WWII

The Museum of the Second World War is housed in a striking piece of modern architecture decorating the northern end of Gdańsk’s waterfront and is one of Gdańsk’s top tourist attractions. As the name suggests, the museum is dedicated to World War II, in particular how the conflict changed the lives of millions of Poles and focussing on the human suffering it caused. The museum is divided into different sections and includes exhibits of Nazi propaganda posters, a haunting Holocaust section, a Sherman tank, street mock-ups, uniforms, weapons, maps, films and much more. You’ll need a minimum of three hours to do the exhibits justice and note that the museum is not suitable for children of any age. There’s a 200-visitor limit to avoid queues so purchase your ticket in advance online.

Further information

European Solidarity Centre

Image: European Solidarity Centre

2. European Solidarity Centre

The European Solidarity Centre is a museum and library devoted to the history of Solidarity, the Polish trade union and civil resistance movement, and other opposition movements of Communist Eastern Europe. The museum opened on 31 August 2014, on the anniversary of the signing of the Gdańsk Agreement, the 1980 victory for striking shipyard workers which led to Solidarity’s foundation. The museum is housed in an award-winning piece of 21st century architecture designed to look like ships under construction, it is not to everyone’s taste. The exhibits examine Poland’s post-war fight for freedom and include real artefacts in addition to multimedia.

Further information

3. St Mary’s Church

St. Mary’s Church is a Brick Gothic Roman Catholic church located in the heart of Gdańsk’s Old Town. It is one of the biggest brick churches in the world, with a 78m high tower dominating the Gdańsk cityscape. There’s plenty to see including the high altar with its Gothic polyptych, the 15th century astronomical clock, the church tower with 405 steps, 300 grave slabs and many outstanding works of art.

Further information.

Sopot Pier

Image: Sopot Pier

4. Sopot Pier

Sopot Pier was developed as a pleasure pier and as a mooring point for cruise boats. It is the longest wooden pier in Europe at 515m and stretches out into the Bay of Gdańsk from the middle of Sopot beach. The pier houses various attractions along its length.

5. Crooked House

Krzywy Domek (Polish for “crooked house”) is an unusually shaped building in Sopot and is part of the Rezydent shopping centre. The warped and crooked structure was inspired by fairy tale illustrations and can be entered from either Monte Cassino or Morska Streets. Inside, you’ll find some worthwhile bars and restaurants.

6. Długi Targ

Długi Targ in Gdańsk, is one of the most notable tourist attractions of the city, situated between the end of Ulica Długa and the Brama Zielona. Historically, it was once the main city market, nowadays, visitors come to admire the architecture, the Neptune Fountain, the 1618 Golden House and the Green Gate built in the 1560s.

Dar Pomorza

Image: Dar Pomorza

7. Dar Pomorza

The Dar Pomorza is a Polish full-rigged sailing ship built in 1909 which is preserved in Gdynia as a museum ship. She has served as a sail training ship in Germany, France, and Poland. Dar Pomorza won the Cutty Sark Trophy in 1980. You can find her on the waterfront next to ORP Błyskawica. Visitors can go aboard to see the ship’s inner workings and read about its story on information panels.

Further information

ORP Błyskawica

Image: ORP Błyskawica

8. ORP Błyskawica

ORP Błyskawica (Lightning) is a Grom-class destroyer which served in the Polish Navy during World War II. It is the only Polish Navy ship to have been decorated with the Virtuti Militari, Poland’s highest military order for gallantry, and in 2012 was given the Pro Memoria Medal. Błyskawica is preserved as a museum ship in Gdynia and is the oldest preserved destroyer in the world. Błyskawica is moored next to the Dar Pomorza.

Further information

9. National Maritime Museum

The National Maritime Museum in Gdańsk is dedicated to gathering, researching and preserving artifacts and documents concerning ship transport, international trade, fishing and culture of people working at sea, and has a sprawling exhibition covering Gdańsk’s role as a Baltic seaport through the centuries. At the Maritime Cultural Centre, you can see a permanent exhibition called ‘People-Ships-Ports’. Other exhibitions include the MS Sołdek, the first vessel to be built at the Gdańsk shipyard, and the Żuraw, a 15th-century loading crane that was the biggest in its day. Further displays can be found at the granaries.

Further information.

10. Ulica Mariacka

Gdańsk’s most photogenic street complete with cobblestones stretching from the waterfront at St Mary’s Gate to St Mary’s Church was totally re-created after WWII in stunning detail. You’ll find a complete row of terraces, several artisan amber jewellery shops, cafes & bars.

FAQ

  1. What is the Tri-City in Poland?
  • The Tri-City is a metropolitan area in Poland, consisting of the three cities of Gdańsk, Gdynia, and Sopot. These three cities are located on the coast of the Baltic Sea and are known for their rich history, culture, and architecture.
  1. What are some popular tourist attractions in the Tri-City?
  • The Old Town of Gdańsk, and the home of the famous Amber Museum.
  • The Gdynia Marina and the Sopot Pier.
  • The European Solidarity Center, which is dedicated to the history of the Solidarity movement and the fall of communism in Poland.
  1. What is the best time to visit the Tri-City?
  • The best time to visit the Tri-City is during the summer months (June-August) when the weather is warm and pleasant.
  1. What is the currency used in the Tri-City?
  • The currency used in Poland is the Polish złoty (PLN).
  1. What is the language spoken in the Tri-City?
  • The official language spoken in the Tri-City and in Poland is Polish.
  1. Are there any good places to eat in the Tri-City?
  • The Tri-City offers a wide range of restaurants and cafes, offering everything from traditional Polish cuisine to international dishes. Some popular restaurants include “Kuchnia Staropolska” in Gdańsk, “Restauracja Pomorska” in Gdynia, and “Karczma Polska” in Sopot.
  1. Are there any good accommodation options in the Tri-City?
  • There are many accommodation options in the Tri-City, including hotels, hostels, and apartments.
  1. Are there any transportation options between the Tri-City?
  • The Tri-City is well connected by public transportation, including buses, trams, and trains. There is also a fast train connection between Gdansk and Sopot, called “SKM” which connect cities in 10-15 min.

Tri-City Tours & Experiences

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Top 10 things to do in Szczecin

What to see, what to do

Things to do – updated 17 January 2023.

There’s a lot to see and do in the city. Here’s our list of the Top things to do in Szczecin. Click on the links for further information or to book a tour & buy tickets.

1. Castle of the Pomeranian Dukes

You can’t miss the castle, it is a big structure, which looms over the Old Town. Originally built in the mid-14th century, the castle was extended until it reached its current form prior to being destroyed by Allied bombing in 1944 and then extensively restored. The castle now houses the Castle Museum exhibiting six spectacular sarcophagi of the Pomeranian dukes in addition to various temporary displays of art.

Further information

2. Karłowicz Philharmonic Szczecin

The Philharmonic is housed in a building, which was awarded the European Union Prize for Contemporary Architecture in 2015. The music venue covers an area of 13,000 square meters and contains a main concert hall with 1000 seats for concert-goers as well as a smaller hall with a capacity for 200 spectators and a number of conference rooms. In 1958 the Philharmonic was named after the renowned Polish classical composer and conductor Mieczysław Karłowicz. The hall is home to the Szczecin philharmonic orchestra but hosts many other performances.

Further information

3. Museum of Technology & Transport

Just outside of the city, you’ll find this interesting museum with exhibits of vehicles of all types, mostly produced in Poland by Szczecin-based company, Stoewer. Among the exhibits are communist-era cars, motorbikes, public transport vehicles and a six-wheel amphibious vehicle from the 1970s.

Further information.

4. Cathedral Basilica of St James

Szczecin’s 12th century cathedral is the largest church in Pomerania. You’ll find it on ul Wyszyńskiego downhill from the city centre. The cathedral was reconstructed in 1972 putting right damage caused by Red Army artillery back in 1945. It is not the prettiest cathedral by any stretch of the imagination; the views from the tower, the stained glass and the tiny crypt are the highlights.

Further information

5. History Museum

The History Museum is located in the 15th century Gothic Town Hall. It houses a number of permanent and temporary exhibits, many focussed on Szczecin’s history. You’ll find a remarkable collection of coins, banknotes and stamps from the region and an impressive collection of gold and silver from across Europe.

Further information.

6. Town Hall

Located in the Old Town district, the red-brick 15th century building was brought back to life in 1968. The Town Hall houses the History Museum.

7. Red Tourist Route

If you enjoy walking and sightseeing, then check out the Red Tourist Route. It takes you on a 7km circuit around town covering 42 important historic sights and buildings. You can pick up a map at any of the tourist offices.

8. The Zoo

Visit the Zoo – which is one of the oldest in Poland and home to a wide variety of animals and species.

Things to do in Szczecin

9. Cafes and restaurants

Relax in one of the many beautiful cafes and restaurants in the Old Town, and sample traditional Polish cuisine.

10. Boat ride

Take a boat ride on the Oder River.

FAQ

What is the best time to visit Szczecin?
The best time to visit Szczecin is in the summer months of June through August when the weather is warm and sunny.

What are some popular tourist attractions in Szczecin?
Some popular tourist attractions in Szczecin include Pomeranian Dukes’ Castle, the National Museum, the Szczecin Philharmonic, and the Old Town.

What is the currency in Szczecin?
The currency in Szczecin is the Polish Złoty (PLN).

What language is spoken in Szczecin?
The official language spoken in Szczecin is Polish.

What is the public transportation like in Szczecin?
Szczecin has a well-developed public transportation system that includes buses, trams, and a light rail system.

Are there any good restaurants or cafes in Szczecin?
Szczecin has many good restaurants and cafes, offering a variety of cuisines, including traditional Polish dishes.

Are there any good hotels or places to stay in Szczecin?
Szczecin has a wide variety of accommodation options, including hotels, hostels, and apartments.

Are there any good shopping places in Szczecin?
Szczecin has a number of shopping centers and markets, including Galeria Kaskada and Galeria Szczecińska.

Are there any good parks or green areas in Szczecin?
Szczecin has a number of parks and green areas, including Puszcza Bukowa and Park Kasprowicza.

Is Szczecin a safe place to visit?
Szczecin is generally considered to be a safe place to visit. However, as with any city, it is always a good idea to be aware of your surroundings and take precautions to protect yourself and your belongings.

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