Category: Things to do

Category: Things to do

Chapter 6 – Trencin, Black Knights & a castle

This post is part of a series of posts following the adventures of a man on a mission to explore 20 countries around Europe on a motorcycle – go to One for the road.

Chapter 6

Being British and therefore having grown up under the dense shadow of football, rugby, football, cricket, golf and football, I’ve never really noticed ice hockey before, and so am captivated now by the blinding speed and astonishing skill of it. The goal’s only as wide as the goal-keeper’s arms, the ball’s invisible, and they play even when the pitch – a quarter of the size of a football pitch yet still crowded with twelve players – is completely frozen over. 

I am the only customer, so the chef and the receptionist and I watch the game while the small blonde barmaid chatters in the background like a forgotten telex machine.

After an hour or so, I look over my shoulder, wondering when the bus/tractor/lorry parked outside with its noisy diesel engine running might either switch off or sod off. There is no lorry or bus: it is the cooler of a huge Coco Cola machine immediately behind me.

Slovakia

Bulging IKEA bags

We ride through many kilometres of lush woods and tumbledown houses. The villages are largely deserted, and once we go through a beautiful, secret valley which together with the humidity reminds me of the rolling country of Sabah in northern Borneo. Once again a railway line follows the road almost constantly, and as ever, I wonder what these houses are like inside. Stacks of cut timber are everywhere, as are the wandering dogs. A sign for Tescos 25km, then another at 3km. The entire country, town and village alike, seems to be largely deserted, and most of the people to be seen, traipsing along the roadsides in their lime green and brilliant orange sports kit with their bulging IKEA bags, have very dark skins.   

Crumbling red bricks

There are blocks of communist flats in every town and sizable village, to house the people who work in the numberless adjacent factories, with their astonishingly high chimneys, all banded white and red. They surely can’t be a thousand feet high, some of these chimneys, but they certainly look like it. These faded and colourless factories, with their walls sprayed with liquid cement to keep up the crumbling red bricks, look not so much defunct as condemned. To a Westerner travelling on the same continent as, say, Switzerland and Germany, the squalor is startling to say the least, and as for the roads – those bikers I’ve spoken to so far have told me that the roads in Bulgaria and Romania are so bad I’ll need a GS not a road bike.

Slovakia

Wooded hills

Another surprise is the extent of the wooded hills, hour after hour. I constantly twist in the saddle to look all around to appreciate it, and once I can see, all the way to a very far distant horizon, the full 360 degrees. This not-very-main road is excellent, and every so often a castle appears on a distant hilltop.

For hours, this drizzling high cloud doesn’t let the sun through. And then suddenly – sunshine! The road begins to steam.

Trencin

Trencin

Trencin, just before the Czech border. Although there are dozens of pensions and hotels, I follow signs for a campsite, which take me across the river and onto an island, and through a gaudy area of 1970s recreational facilities, with the concrete and the steel pool and the stadium all painted in faded colours. I check in at the campsite office/shop. There’s a motorcyclist in here, a short, pot-bellied man in his forties wearing a leather jacket with tassels up and down the sleeves and across the shoulders, above a skull and crossed bones and the legend Black Kings. He seems nervous, pointing here and there and glancing round at me. His shopping consists of packets of noodles, twenty Marlboro cigarettes, some cake, some jam, and now a small bottle of vodka, which he slips into a jacket pocket before shooting me a challenging look on his way out.

The campsite lady speaks only speak German, but we sort something out and I’m shown to my cabin, which is clean and small. The facilities are basic but sufficient, and speakers mounted on trees and huts everywhere broadcast constant Country and Western music.

Harley

Black Kings

It’s still early, so I sit at the table on my little veranda and watch the bikers who are camped across the way, a band of bikers in black leather jackets with Black Kings logos, whose Japanese easy-rider style bikes, with high bars, backrests for the sisters and forward-mounted footpegs for the brothers, are parked in a neat line. One of them I recognise as a Sportster 883, the baby of Harley Davidson’s range; it is small, slow, heavy, under-powered, but it is a Harley. While the men stand around smoking and discussing the day’s ride and compare the performances of the Virago (550cc) and the CM250TB (250cc) and the Drag Star (650cc), the girls queue for the washrooms.

Uneasy Rider

After a while, tubby Uneasy Rider leaves them and trudges across the grass back to the shop, from where he soon re-emerges and returns to re-join the group, all the while completely ignoring me and the battered old BMW at my side. It doesn’t take many seconds to see that he’s the oldest over there, and when he and several of the others go to the bikes and stand around gazing admiringly at the 883, it becomes equally obvious that he is the Black Kings’ leader.

By evening, he has made another two quick trips to the campsite shop – still not even glancing at the motorcyclist sitting ten yards away, and when I look across and see that he has gathered his expectant flock around him in a circle by their camp fire, it’s not difficult to guess why the two extra trips.

Castle

To reduce the size of his audience by at least one, I walk into town for supper, relishing the sight of the old castle atop the hill. My route takes me between the trees and through the 1970s recreational facilities of the playground, which is constructed almost entirely of steel and concrete, all of which is rusty and painted. Even the attractions in the children’s section are all steel and concrete, from climbing frames to ping pong tables.

Trencin Castle

Trencin is an attractive university town of 18th and 19th Century buildings and artful modern pedestrian plazas, and when I settle into a cosy restaurant, all shadowy nooks and creaking floorboards, and order supper, I realise I’ve left the guidebook on the table in my cabin, leaving me with nothing to do for an hour but resolutely refuse to watch the pretty and perfectly-formed young barmaid, whose naked body appears to have had a T-shirt and jeans painted onto it, go about her duties.

Uneasy Rider looks pleased this morning, with his saggy belly and thinning hair, when I see him striding across the grass to the shop. He looks older, though, and must have forgotten to buy porridge during his many shopping trips last night. The campsite is otherwise deserted, and I sit in the sun, smoking and writing, for an hour until Mrs Campsite is ready to return my passport.

Czech Republic

At the border, a grim Slovak guard takes my passport into his office, returns after I’ve watched him through the window making various phone calls, points at the back of the bike, barks, “Baggage!”, and points to where he wants me to park. The tank bag, top box and two panniers unlocked and waiting in a row on the pavement for him, I sit on the kerb, smoking and chewing four-day old bread, and watch a hawk hovering high above the neighbouring field. A shiny new Slovakian Mercedes 500SEL is turned back (oddly, since it contained what appeared to be an entire family), then one of the guards comes out with my passport and gestured up the road, towards the wooded hills of the Czech Republic.

But I ignore him, because I’m kicking myself for not bothering to read the guidebook before leaving the campsite.

The site of Trenčín has been occupied since before Roman times, and the town itself was occupied by the Germans and became the regional headquarters of the Sicherheitsdienst and the Gestapo, but it is the castle that’s really worth seeing . . . a typical medieval fortification situated high on a rock above the city . . . first noted in 1069 when the region was controlled by King Boleslaw I the Brave of Poland . . . as one of the few stone castles in Slovakia it resisted the disastrous invasion of Mongols in 1241 . . . climb the stairs for superb views over the surrounding area . . . towers and palaces . . . However, Trenčín is best known for a Roman inscription carved into a cliff below the castle dating from 179 AD, a soldier’s graffiti celebrating a battle against German tribes: To the victory of the Emperor and the army which, numbering 855 soldiers, resided at Laugaricio, by order of Maximianus, legate of the 2nd auxilliary legion.

Motorcycle Rental

Chapter 5 – Levoco, Jeepsies & fat-spattered trainers

This post is part of a series of posts following the adventures of a man on a mission to explore 20 countries around Europe on a motorcycle – go to One for the road.

Chapter 5

We cross the border into Slovakia, riding through a rich area of huge modern villas, neat and tidy old prosperous farms with ancient tractors in yards and glossy horses in fields, and many pokoj for rent in a landscape of hills and woods of many greens beneath a sky which is wide and blue.

Slovakia

Shanty village

We pass through a small town where I see my first gypsies, walking along the dusty verge, very dark skinned, with moustaches, brawny arms and laden with big blue IKEA bags. Then I see where they were walking to: on the very edge of town, just after a huge sign informing motorists that the next branch of Tescos is 64km away, there is a  little shanty village of ramshackle huts and lean-toes and decrepit dwellings surrounded by patches of beaten yellow dirt. Dogs wander aimlessly and in a large open area an old man sits alone in a wheelchair.

Slovakia

Levoca

Seeing a sign for somewhere called Levoca, I swing left off the highway; it’s early but the sign has a kind of castle-thingy logo, so it’s probably pretty. Sure enough, I bump through a pretty arched gateway in some ancient-looking town walls, trickle through pretty streets until I find a cheap hotel, where for £30 I can dump all the kit in a spotless, airy, modern room, with bath and shower, air-conditioned, satellite TV, tea and coffee-making facilities and a double bed, and then, on the insistence of the owner, park the bike in the locked garden.

Levoca

The sun, swallowed by the high white sheet that has been drawing across the sky from the west since I left Zakopane, has gone in by the time I hit the pavement with the camera. I walk around the near-empty streets, but every shot I choose contains at least one traffic sign, a Landcruiser or Mercedes M Class from Austria, and a trio of local teenagers dressed entirely in the ubiquitous brightly-coloured nylon sports kit, the boys staring at me and the girls arm in arm, giggling. I wonder what to do; it’s a bit early to start drinking, or have supper, but the town has a deserted feel about it. I’d guess it positively buzzes as a happening destination in season, but possibly not alone on a fairly chilly pre-season afternoon, with the sun a haloed white disc in a white sky making for very flat light for photography, and a strong wind lifting all the dust.

Mini-Krakow

But considering I turned off the highway on a whim, I’ve chosen well. Lewoca is a kind of mini Krakow, with a beautifully preserved and maintained main square which contains a number of striking buildings which during the late Middle Ages were the residences of the local nobility, which have since been turned into shops, but since they haven’t demolished the fronts and installed vast plate glass windows plastered with adverts for cheap spectacles and mortgages and charity shops, it’s difficult to tell.

Jeepsies

I try one; it is a classic grocery store. The next sells wool, rolls of material and cloth and other sewing materials. Another has an i on a small blue sign outside, so I go inside for information and find that it’s an internet café. The young owner speaks very good English, which he uses to let me know while I’m waiting for a connection that he’s very worried about the gypsies, he would never go to Romania because of them, and that they would ruin any Eastern European itinerary.

Gypsies, he says, are a problem.

“Why?” I ask. “What do they do?”

Nothing, he says, misunderstanding me. “They do not work, can not work, and do not want to work. They are not a big problem here, in Slovakia, but to the east, they are more aggressive. Many problems.”

“How many live here in Levoca?”

He considers for a moment. “Maybe a hundred and fifty.”

“But there’s no problem?”

“Jeepsies are always a problem. You’ll see.”

“Hey!” says the young man sitting at the next console, looking annoyed. “Do you sell headphones for all this noise?”

Main buildings

Out in the main square, I stand and look around. The grass here is a rich green; the sun dapples through the new leaves of the many trees, beneath which townsfolk gradually arrive to sit on benches and chat and idle, and beyond which the three main buildings can be noted: the magnificent Old Town Hall (15th-17th century) and museum, with its frescos high on its wall; the Evangelical Lutheran Church (1837), and the 14th century Roman Catholic Church of St. James, which is currently being re-roofed and contains a beautifully carved and painted wooden Gothic altar, at a sixty feet high the largest in Europe.

Having been three minutes too late for the museum, I try to get in to see this, but arrive at the iron gate of the church just as it clangs shut. “Hello!” a tall, distinguished lady I haven’t noticed calls out to the woman walking rapidly away into the shadows within. The woman keeps going. The lady turns to her husband and shrugs. He produces a tourist map of the town, and they stride off, and after a moment I follow.

Hungary

On a low pedestal of stone set outside the Town Hall is a large wrought iron cage from the 17th century, and the notice explains how ‘miscreants’ were locked in here for periods of public humiliation. For eight hundred years, right up until 1918, this area was part of Hungary, during which time Levoca underwent 23 name changes, including six in 1786 alone (Lewoče, Lőcse, Leutschau, Leuchovia, Leutschovia, Leutsaria), and another four in 1808, though in fact most people here were German. Granted the status of royal town in 1317, and sited conveniently on an intersection of trade routes, Levoca went on to enjoy centuries of successfully exporting iron, copper, furs, leather, corn, and wine, while developing as a noted cultural centre.

Satellite dishes

Although Levoca was largely destroyed twice during the Middle Ages, a respectable number of ancient buildings escaped, to blend nicely with the Renaissance town that emerged. Many of these buildings, which their smart gardens, double garages, window boxes and big clean windows, neat stacks of firewood, have walls that have never been finished. The red hollow brick construction, whose pointing and finish wouldn’t be out of place in a poor Indian village in the Colombian jungle, have been left exposed. Having spent God knows how much building the place, you’d think the owners would spend a few more korunas and get Boris the Builder to whack some rendering over the walls. Satellite television dishes, of course, are everywhere.

Levoco

Spotless

I wondered what it was, apart from the sun through the new leaves of the trees that kept catching my eye. Now I noticed what it was: a complete absence of litter. No chewing gum, no cigarette cartons or blowing crisp packets. The square grass was a spotless lawn, and the granite pavement was equally spotless.

Pope John Paul II

Nearly all of the ancient walls survive, and I see that the gateway I bumped through earlier was the monumental 15th century Kosice Gate. From a vantage point looking north, the full scale of how picturesquely sited the town is revealed. To the north, a kilometre or so out of town, at the end of a long, tree-lined road, a church sits atop the traditional pilgrim site of Marianska Hill, where in 1995 Pope John Paul II celebrated Mass.

As I look out, the church actually disappears as the cloud finally comes to earth, and a few seconds later it begins to rain, a steady wet rain that carries a powerful argument for an early supper. I had thought of further exploring the town in search of a good restaurant, but when I return to the square, I find lurking in doorways away from the rain groups of swarthy people, peering out. Some are clearly of Indian origin, others merely sun-burned from years of outdoor work, but all wear either only the bleached denim or vivid sports clothes so common here, particularly among the men.

The men, when I do glance at them, are already looking at me: no downcast eyes of the oppressed here, but the direct, challenging start of the angry. Yet I can’t see a way out for them. They themselves generally seem to be uninterested in education.

I pass a sign saying EURO PUB. BEER/DRINKS, but I decide that I might as well go back to the hotel, where I stand waiting at the bar for a while before a movement catches my eye. I look down, and see that the chef – easily recognisable by the internationally-ubiquitous uniform of fat-spattered trainers, checked trousers and an expression of disdain – is scrunched beneath the counter, watching, six inches from my knees, a small television set. A certain synchronicity of sound makes me look up to the television set up on the bar wall; the Russians and Czechs are knocking hell out of each other in a game of ice hockey.

Go to Chapter 6

Motorcycle Rental

Chapter 2 – Must wash the socks

This post is part of a series of posts following the adventures of a man on a mission to explore 20 countries around Europe on a motorcycle – go to One for the road.

Chapter 2

I stop for a break at a petrol station, and stand beside the bike, sipping coffee and watching motorcycles and cars and lorries roar along the Czech highway. A dog barks in the field behind the trees, while above, very high cloud the colour of sour milk hides the sun. It’s muggy for April. The reality slowly surfaces, and at last I smile.

I am doing what I’ve wanted to do all my adult life.

Europe on a motorcycle

Socks

The miles and hours of high white cloud have suddenly been swept away, leaving behind a glorious, sunny afternoon. It’s not quite sleeping-out weather yet, though, so after trundling round the pretty little town of Svitavy in a futile search for a cheap pension I book into a hotel just outside town: £30 for a double room, bathroom, TV, tea and coffee-making facilities, breakfast, air conditioning etc. The view is leftover snowdrifts in the car park and some trees that bring to mind the words ‘acid’ and ‘rain’. Still in a bit of a daze from the hours of noise and wind, I look out at it, thinking, Socks. Must wash the socks.

Oskar Schindler Factory

Oskar Schindler

Well, Oskar Schindler might’ve found Moravia pretty, but it hasn’t been what I would call outstanding, although it’s pretty if you’re from Norfolk or Belgium – indeed, positively mountainous if you come from Holland.

Svitavy was where Schindler grew up in the 1930s, before he went into Poland, where he chose the beautiful Krakow as a base in which to establish a business that would, commercially, go nowhere, but would save the lives of more than a thousand human beings, putting Krakow, the Holocaust and Ran Feinnes and Liam Neeson on the map forever. It was strange, last night, to stroll along the main street and picture the teenaged Oskar roaring up and down the cobbles on his motorcycle.

I think my left heel is beginning to rot. Not only are the holes in the sole getting deeper, but this morning, despite hot water and soap last night, I’m sure I smelt Feet.

Brno

Brno (confusingly pronounced ‘Brno’) is sprawling and ugly. The roads are bad and acid rain has killed or damaged most of the trees on the many hills that surround the city. There have been lots of hares and deer in the fields on both sides all morning, and I remember eight deer lying down in the middle of a huge field beside a German motorway yesterday morning.

Brno

Slovakia

Slovakia. On the motorway to Zilina, thousands of dead trees stand in deep water for miles. The road surface is still poor, but there’s a fast-emerging middle class in Czech and Slovakia – smart cars are everywhere.

Bratislava

Despite several circuits of Bratislava I can’t break into the centre, where my bed in The Gremlin hostel is waiting for me.  Whole streets are being dug up, and others one way or for trams only. When I notice a group of gypsies lurking in a doorway staring at me as I go by for the fourth time, I know I’m not going to leave the bike unattended even while checking accommodation, never mind overnight. So I do the best thing to do in these circumstances: I give up.

Bratislava

Zilina

I point the front wheel at a sign that says, Zilina 189KM, and settle into the saddle for a three-hour ride. It stops raining, and I smile before nearly jumping out of my skin when a few hundred metres away a Boeing 737 roars up above the rooftops and immediately disappears into the cloud.

It begins to rain again.

Zilina

Castles

The motorway road surface is excellent now, from which I watch as a number of great castles appear on hillsides to left and right, in this ancient landscape scattered, for some reason, with lots of huge signs, amidst some very evident poverty, inviting us to vote for Rowan Atkinson. Is Mr Bean coming to town?

That’s my man!

I stop for petrol, and then smoke a cigarette while stamping my feet and rubbing my hands together. The back door of a nearby parked car opens and a teenaged girl springs out. She’s pretty, very slim and heading straight for me.

“Hello!” she gushes.

“Hello,” I say, taking two steps backwards.

“You are okay?” she asks in a bright-eyed and bushy-tailed way.

“Er, yes, thank you.”

“You are looking for some place to stay?”

So that’s it. Young prostitute, sent across by her pimp to get trade.

“Well, I am, but I’ll be all right. Thank you.”

She is possessed of an energy that would light up a Christmas tree. She’s also very young, possibly no older than sixteen. She gestures towards the car. “My father would like to buy you a drink.”

Ha! Yeah, I bet he would.

“Your father?”

“Yes. Would you like to meet my father?” She’s wearing tight jeans and a thin, cheap windcheater over a tee-shirt beneath which there is very clearly no bra. Trainers. No make-up. Then the driver’s door of the car opens and a thick-set man of about 45 heaves himself out. Here we go. I drop the cigarette and stand on it as the man, unshaven and dressed in bulky, dark old clothing, approaches.

He speaks rapidly and brusquely to the girl, who answers while gesturing at me. He glares at me as he waits for the translation and my answer. I begin to feel annoyance rising in me, and reach for my crash helmet. Hear what she has to say and then move on.

Czech beer

“My father says that if you follow us to our hotel, he will buy you a beer.” Her English is very good indeed. All those German businessmen, I expect. Lots of practise.

“Your ‘hotel’, eh?” The ‘father’ is staring intently at me.

“Yes. My family is booked into a hotel not far from here.”

I almost sneer. “Your family, eh?”

“My father and mother and my baby brother.” And she points towards the car, where a middle-aged woman and a five-year old boy are smiling and waving through the windows.

Three hours later, I lie in bed in a roadside motel and wonder about Slovakia, Hungary and Romania. The gorgeous Jana spent the whole of supper translating for her parents and me as we chatted in the restaurant downstairs. Her father spent much of the time warning me of gypsies in all eastern European countries. When I asked why he’d invited me for supper, she replied, “Because my father hasn’t had a drink for three months.”

“Maybe I was waiting for a friend.”

“No, he knew you were alone. As soon as he saw you he told my mother, ‘That’s my man!’”

Skalite

Outside, the traffic swishes by on the wet road, while the lonely hills sleep on the horizon.

The clouds are more broken and fast-moving than they were yesterday, so there’s hope for a little sun today.  I’ll turn right before the Czech border, to see if the railway at Skalite is the right one. The track heading north out of Zilina looked a bit mainline.

Stork

Snow and litter lie everywhere on the verges, strips and sheets of plastic hang or flap in the reeds, a fridge has been thrown down a slope; heavy rain which the sun tries to get through and my first stork gazes out from its enormous nest atop a telegraph pole. Four or five mongrels in a car park queue up to gang-bang a mongrel bitch wearing an expression recognisable as a look of ‘here we go again’ resignation.

Did the railway line branch off for Skalite? Or go north? It keeps coming and going across the road, which begins to climb, and it gets colder. Everywhere looks poor, with children waving sticks and streamers providing the first clue that this is Easter Sunday, along with crowds of people coming out of churches wearing their Sunday best. Very few cars in evidence, and snow is everywhere now. We go over the top, and occasional glimpses of the railway appear to the right, and then the road deteriorates badly and the railway line heads off into the forest on the left, and quite unexpectedly we come to the border crossing. It is absolutely brand new and totally deserted, a quite fantastic waste of money. Then we’re in among houses and cottages, separated by rickety old wooden fences, where chickens scratch and peck.

Country folk

The tarmac disappears and we’re onto cobbles. Here and there, folk are doing this and that, as country folk tend to, every single one of whom looks up at me as I go by – then I understand that the snows would have cut off these roads for the entire winter, for the last five months or so. I am possibly the first motorcycle to come through here this year.

Zywiec

I get lost in the small town of Zywiec (home of one of Poland’s most famous beers; a bit like getting lost in Guinness, Ireland, or Budweiser, USA), and I’m just sitting on the bike, examining the map, when a voice says, “May I help you?” I look up. A man in his twenties, dressed as if to play the part of a young Cambridge don in a BBC mini-series, is smiling at me through John Lenin spectacles.

I tell him what I’m looking for.

“It’s sixty kilometres – about forty of those English miles of yours.”

The railway line comes back, but the potholes are so bad my fingers become completely numb, with vibration white finger. We enter a small town, I see signs I’m looking for and follow them, turn right into a complex and stop.  A young man comes up and begins to write a ticket. Beyond him I can see faceless windows, watchtowers and barbed wire fences. It’s not a parking ticket for a traffic violation I’m getting, it’s a parking ticket for a museum.

Auschwitz-Birkenau

What the Germans would’ve called Koncentrazionlager 1.

What the rest of the world knows as Auschwitz.

Go to Chapter 3

Motorcycle Rental

Chapter 1 – Wet and suffering

This post is part of a series of posts following the adventures of a man on a mission to explore 20 countries around Europe on a motorcycle – go to One for the road.

Chapter 1

Not really aware of entering Holland, after Belgium. Antwerp’s eight-lane highway, with its ugly blocks of flats and McDonald’s every five minutes. Flat, uninteresting countryside – they never really caught on with hedges, did they, the Dutch? Wind turbines, miles and miles of new developments, factories, power stations, car lots. I am cringingly aware of my vulnerability in amongst the roaring, speeding juggernauts on these icy roads. Overtaken by three bikes, all of whom waved. I can’t remember when a Brit biker last waved hello. While I was growing up with bikes throughout the 1970s and 1980s, all motorcyclists would dip a chin or raise a finger. Not anymore. Different people ride bikes now. Then, you did it because it was in your jeans. Now people ride them because they’re, like, you know, cool.

Amsterdam

Amsterdam

Amsterdam. Eleven hours’ sleep. I didn’t bother with the Red Light District, not wanting my worst impressions of Western civilisation confirmed. And I was tired on the bike yesterday – Belgian and Dutch drivers give you no space at all. Now, I sit here, still muzzy with diesel fumes, with my breakfast, and contemplate the scene outside, the green, rain-dimpled canal, and the low, flat grey skies.

Germany

There were several things I wanted to avoid on this trip: getting mugged, breaking down, the bike being stolen – but most of all, getting wet. And this, on Day Two, it’s been raining since I got off the ferry. I leave the motorway and head south. Hannover and Osnabruck don’t share many letters, and lie in opposite directions, but it’s surprisingly easy to get them confused; as soon as I see the error I decide to go across country rather than head back into the road works and chaos again. And then it begins to rain.

Celle, Germany

Celle

Immediately on entering Celle, we are all held up by a Volvo. We wait and wait. A van goes round eventually, but the dark-skinned youth from Turkey or Syria or somewhere in the red Golf in front of me stops, leaps out, and runs up to the Volvo, yanks open the driver’s door, screams abuse while pointing up at a nearby NO PARKING sign, jumps back in his Golf and drives away. As I pass, the driver, an old guy, unhurriedly heaves himself out and lifts the Volvo’s bonnet.

A few seconds later, the queue grinds to a halt again, and I swing the bike round the next obstruction, a red hatchback. As I pass it I glance inside and see a dark-skinned youth from Turkey or Syria or somewhere, his face buried in his forearm, turning his ignition key, and I hear a starter motor uselessly grinding.

Celle is very clean and neat and tidy.
Six hours on the road. Love it.
But exhausted. I didn’t expect it to be this tiring.

In a rut

There’s been a groove, a rut, in the motorway all the way from Holland. It isn’t lethal, but does have to be watched constantly. You can assume nothing when riding at speed. This old bike at anything less than 20mph is like pushing a wheelbarrow full of wet concrete with a flat tyre – not easy between lines of close traffic. And the engine’s noise is worrying: there are variants of grumble/rattle/whine/occasional bumps as if a pebble has passed through some gear wheels. So much for the ‘full service’.

Deserted towns. Freezing wind from the side, but at least it’s dry, and the wind from the side and not behind. When it’s coming from behind, being blown into an oncoming lorry is a very real possibility.

East Germany

East Germany. Entire timber and brick blocks ruined and burnt-out, windows smashed. Coloured tenements, scrubby hills with chimneys and radio towers, a schloss on the hill to the south-east. The icy wind burns my face. Snow on the hills on the horizon. Completely numb fingers. The roads are atrocious. I stop at a McDonald’s for a coffee, and when I look for money in my jacket pocket I find two tubes of sugar from the ferry still in my pocket, and it takes a moment to tell them apart from my frozen bloodless fingers. Three hours we’ve been on the road, and have covered fewer than 90 miles.

Around Europe on a motorbike

Unwashed socks

Sometime in the early afternoon, seven monster Japanese bikes appear suddenly all around me, roaring like fighter jets, their burly middle-aged pilots revving and shouting to one another, leaping between traffic lights and revving in tunnels. They ignore me completely and I’ve wondered why, until just now, when I saw my reflection in a showroom window and understood why: two pairs of unwashed socks tucked under a bungee strap to dry. Not cool.

Triangle of Death

Snow lies beneath the trees on either side, with steep slopes leading to rushing streams amongst the rocks. A small-gauge railway reminds me that a camp was near here. During the war, this area was known as the Triangle of Death.

The others have long gone and I’m sorry to see them go because it means that the worrying clunk of my own bike are now audible again, as well as shaking her head badly at low speeds.

Climbing out of the valley and back into the dangerous gusting wind, hunched behind the screen, one hand on the throttle, the other shoved deep into my crutch, behind the tankbag. The young trees that line the road don’t even twitch in the gale, while I’m like Quasimodo here. It’s coming from the north now, from a sky that could’ve been drawn by a child let loose with a pencil on a sheet of grey paper: smudged, dull, uninteresting.

We pass widely-spaced trees by the road, several of which bear the becoming-familiar barkless scar and a jar or two of mournful flowers. Three graves in a single mile.

Crissing and crossing

Some towns are deserted, canyons of sheer wall. Some villages are very rough indeed. And here’s this single-track railway again, that we’ve been crissing and crossing all afternoon. It’s so cold, as the route demands that the wind swings round from behind to left to right, that my left ear actually hurts, inside the open-faced helmet.

Europe on a motorcycle

And now it begins to hail, hard and suddenly. I squint at the mountains, as pea-sized hailstones pelt my face. Thank God I’ve got a scarf to hand to protect my exposed face. I do have such a scarf ready to hand – I’m not a fool, you know – so all I’ve got to do is to pull over, stop, get off, dig deep into the rucksack, and there it would be, ready to hand.

Meat and hair

Reminded to check controls every single time you think of it – once a minute. I was very nearly caught out by an 8-Series BMW just now who suddenly appeared not in my mirror but right beside my knee – and going like hell. If I’d drifted a hand’s-width to the left one second beforehand he’d have had a party anecdote, while I’d have been shovelled, all meat and hair, into a sandbag.

I’ve been aware that it’s been quickly getting darker (cue thunder and lightning, for real), but it’s only when I angrily flash an oncoming car and he angrily flashes me back that I realize that I am, in this lowering cloud and light, still wearing my sunnies. What a mighty dickhead I am.

Bad Lausick

In Bad Lausick there are no IH signs anywhere, unless you use bloody good map reading to accidentally take the correct road out and then see a small, lone sign two miles out and even then have to ask someone who waves a vague hand and says, ‘up there somewhere’. It was up there somewhere, but there’s no-one on reception. Tired, buzzing, cold, starving. Bastards.

Beer on the haus

The young man on reception is a pale, overweight personification of everything I think a young man should not be. Bad skin, thinning hair, thick lips. Breasts. He explains that he was away from the desk because he was emailing his mother about his military service. “You still have conscription here?” He pulls a face. “Two thousand troops in Afghanistan, for dying, then one thousand to Zaire for UN election monitoring. After this, I will go into supermarket management”. I tell him he is doing the right thing and he kindly gives me a beer on the haus. We all have our place, and supermarket management is his. Freezing and suffering on my bloody old motorbike is mine.

Hands shaking from nine hours on the road, but I feel good. From my room, one window shows a scene of a tree-lined meadow, blood-tinged with the setting sun, while the other one shows only heavy, dark, serious rain. What was that about supermarket management?

Go to Chapter 2

Motorcycle Rental

Kuyavia-Pomerania (Kujawsko-Pomorskie)

Kuyavia-Pomerania

Kuyavia-Pomerania – updated 19 January 2023.

The Kuyavia-Pomerania (Kujawsko-Pomorskie) region in Poland is located in the north-central part of the country, and is known for its beautiful landscapes, rich history, and cultural heritage. The region is bordered by the Vistula River and the Masurian Lake District to the east, the Pomeranian Voivodeship to the north, and the Greater Poland Voivodeship to the south.

Main cities & towns

The main towns and cities in the Kuyavia-Pomerania (Kujawsko-Pomorskie) region of Poland include:

  1. Bydgoszcz: The capital of the region and one of the main economic and cultural centers of the region. It is known for its historic buildings and monuments, such as the Gothic-style St. Martin’s Church, the Baroque-style Town Hall, and the Opera Nova, as well as for its industrial development and modern infrastructure.
  2. Toruń: This is one of the oldest cities in Poland and is known for its well-preserved medieval Old Town, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Toruń is also famous for being the birthplace of the astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus.
  3. Grudziądz: This is a charming town located on the banks of the Vistula River, it’s known for its rich history and cultural heritage, and for its well-preserved medieval Old Town.
  4. Włocławek: This is an important economic center of the region and is known for its industrial development, particularly in the field of textiles. The city also has a rich cultural heritage and is home to several historic buildings and monuments.
  5. Inowrocław: This is a charming town with a rich history and cultural heritage, it’s known for its beautiful parks, historic churches, and the Inowrocław Saltworks, which is one of the oldest and most important salt mines in Poland.
  6. Brodnica: This is a small town with a rich history and cultural heritage, it’s known for its well-preserved medieval Old Town, its historic church and the Gothic-style town hall.

These are some of the main towns and cities of the Kuyavia-Pomerania region, but the region is also home to several other smaller towns and villages, each with its own unique history, culture and attractions.

Natural landscapes

One of the main attractions of the Kuyavia-Pomerania region is the beautiful natural landscapes. The region is home to the Tuchola Forest, one of the largest and most diverse forests in Poland. The forest is a popular destination for hiking, camping, and wildlife watching, and is home to a variety of plant and animal species.

Lakes & rivers

The region is also home to several beautiful lakes and rivers, such as the Charzykowska Lake, the largest lake in the region, and the Brda River, which is popular for canoeing and fishing. The region is also home to the Wda Landscape Park, which is a beautiful area of rolling hills, meadows, and forests that is perfect for hiking and cycling.

Opera Nova

Rich history and cultural heritage

The Kuyavia-Pomerania region is also known for its rich history and cultural heritage. The city of Bydgoszcz, which is the capital of the region, is home to several historic buildings and monuments, including the Gothic-style St. Martin’s Church, the Baroque-style Town Hall, and the Opera Nova, which is one of the most modern opera houses in Europe.

Kuyavia-Pomerania

Castles & palaces

The region is also home to several historic castles and palaces, such as the Ciechocinek Palace, the Golub-Dobrzyń Castle, and the Rydzyna Castle, which are popular tourist attractions. The region is also known for its traditional crafts, such as pottery, woodcarving, and weaving, and visitors can find a wide variety of handmade goods at local markets and shops.

Industry and commerce

The Kuyavia-Pomerania region is also an important center of industry and commerce. The region is home to several large manufacturing companies, including the Bydgoszcz Industrial Park, which is home to several leading companies in the automotive and electronics industries.

Off the beaten path

Despite its industrial development, the Kuyavia-Pomerania region remains a relatively undiscovered destination in Poland. Visitors to the area will find a unique blend of natural beauty, rich history, and cultural heritage that makes it a great destination for those looking to explore off the beaten path.

Kuyavia-Pomerania

Biskupin

Biskupin is an archaeological site located in Poland, in the Kuyavia-Pomerania region. It is an ancient fortified settlement that was built by the Lusatian culture, an early Iron Age culture that existed in Central Europe between the 8th and 5th centuries BCE. The settlement was discovered in 1933 by archaeologist Józef Kostrzewski, and is now considered one of the most important archaeological sites in Poland.

Hidden gem

In conclusion, the Kuyavia-Pomerania region of Poland is a hidden gem that offers a unique blend of natural beauty, rich history, and cultural heritage. The Tuchola Forest, the lakes, and the Wda Landscape Park are perfect for outdoor enthusiasts, while the traditional crafts and historic buildings and monuments of the region are perfect for those looking to experience the local culture. The region’s industrial development also makes it an important center of commerce in Poland. It’s a destination that should not be missed for those who are interested in exploring Poland.

FAQ

Q: What is the Kuyavia-Pomerania (Kujawsko-Pomorskie) region in Poland known for?

A: The Kuyavia-Pomerania region in Poland is known for its beautiful landscapes, rich history, and cultural heritage. The Tuchola Forest, the lakes, and the Wda Landscape Park are popular destinations for outdoor enthusiasts, while the traditional crafts, historic buildings and monuments are popular among those interested in experiencing the local culture. The region is also an important center of industry and commerce in Poland.

Q: What are some popular things to do in the Kuyavia-Pomerania region?

A: Popular activities in the Kuyavia-Pomerania region include hiking in the Tuchola Forest, visiting the beautiful lakes and rivers, exploring historic buildings and monuments, visiting the Bydgoszcz Industrial Park to learn about the region’s industrial development and experiencing traditional crafts, local cuisine and culture.

Q: What are some popular traditional crafts in the Kuyavia-Pomerania region?

A: Traditional crafts in the Kuyavia-Pomerania region include pottery, woodcarving, and weaving. Visitors to the area can find a wide variety of handmade goods at local markets and shops.

Q: What are some popular dishes in the Kuyavia-Pomerania region?

A: The Kuyavia-Pomerania region has a rich culinary heritage, which includes traditional dishes such as kiełbasa, kaszanka, and kapuśniak, among others. Visitors can find many local restaurants and taverns that specialize in regional cuisine.

Q: How can I get to the Kuyavia-Pomerania region?

A: The Kuyavia-Pomerania region is located in north-central Poland. The main city of the region is Bydgoszcz, which can be reached by train or bus from other major cities in Poland. The region is also easily accessible by car and has good road connections.

Q: Are there any national parks in the Kuyavia-Pomerania region?

A: Yes, the Tuchola Forest is one of the main attraction of the Kuyavia-Pomerania region, it’s a national park and it’s one of the largest and most diverse forests in Poland. The forest is a popular destination for hiking, camping, and wildlife watching.

Torun Tours & Attractions

Top 10 things to do in Wrocław

What to see, what to do

Things to do – updated 17 January 2023.

There’s a lot to see and do in the city. Here’s our list of the Top 10 things to do in Wrocław. Click on the links for further information or to book a tour & buy tickets.

1. Wrocław Dwarfs

They’re referred to in Poland as dwarfs but they’re actually bronze gnomes around 20-30cm tall, which have been appearing in the streets of Wrocław since 2005. Today, there are hundreds of them, almost an invasion and they’ve become a major tourist attraction. You can even get maps and mobile apps to help you find them.

2. Old Town Hall

The 13th century Gothic Old Town Hall stands at the centre of the city’s Market Square and is one of the main landmarks of the city. It’s currently used for civic and cultural events, which are held in its Great Hall and also houses the Museum of Bourgeois Art and a restaurant in the basement. The structure is a mix of architectural styles with both Gothic and Renaissance features. The astronomical clock is made of larch wood and was built in 1580.

3. National Museum

The National Museum is one of Poland’s main branches of the National Museum system. It holds one of the largest collections of contemporary art in the country. You’ll find exhibits of Medieval sculpture on the ground floor in addition to paintings from the region, silverware, ceramics and furnishings. Polish art, primarily 17th century paintings, can be found on the 2nd floor.

Further information.

4. Panorama of Racławice

The Racławice Panorama is a monumental (15m x 114m) cycloramic painting depicting the Battle of Racławice, during the Kościuszko Uprising and is Wrocław’s pride and joy. It is wrapped around the internal walls of a purpose-built rotunda. The painting took nine artists, nine months to complete and used 750kg of paint. Visits are by guided audio tours, departing every half hour.

Skip-the-Line Panorama Raclawicka, National Museum and Ostrow Tumski tour

5. Church of the Holy Name of Jesus

This Late Baroque-Rococo church is part of Wrocław University and is one of the most picturesque in the city, if not the country. We can thank the Jesuits for this piece of architectural beauty, they built it way back in the 1690s on the site of the former Piast castle. The interior of the church has been painted to imitate marble and contains frescoes & ornate fittings.

Further information.

6. Botanical Gardens

You’ll find the Botanical Gardens on Cathedral Island. The gardens were built between 1811 – 1816 and are part of the University of Wrocław. Within the gardens, there is a large selection of plants, sculptures, aquariums, a large pond, bridges, a shop, and a café. The gardens are open from early April until mid-November.

Further information.

7. Wrocław Zoo

The Zoo is located on Wróblewskiego Street and is the oldest zoo in the country, opened in 1865. In terms of the number of animal species, it is the third largest zoological garden in the world and the largest in Poland. It is home to about 10,500 animals representing about 1,132 species.

Wroclaw Zoo tickets with private transportation

Further information.

8. Hansel & Gretel

One of Wrocław’s favourite photo opportunities, are two charming, skinny tenements known locally as Jaś i Małgosia, better known to German and English speakers as Hansel and Gretel. You’ll find them on the north-western corner of the Market Square. The two fairy tale houses are linked by a baroque archway built in 1728.

9. Church of St Elizabeth

St. Elizabeth’s Church of the Catholic Third Order of Saint Francis is a 14th century Gothic church and one of the most iconic structures of the city’s Old Town panorama. It has a 90m high tower, a triple nave and is by medieval chapels. Inside, you’ll find a mid-15th-century sacramentary and carved medieval choir stalls.

10. Archaeological Museum

This museum is housed inside of the city’s former 15th century Arsenal alongside the Military Museum. Exhibits focus on the period from the Stone Age to the 19th century. You’ll find everyday objects from these times such as tools, ornaments and weapons.

Further information.

FAQ

Q: What is the best time to visit Wroclaw?
A: The best time to visit Wroclaw is during the spring and summer months, when the weather is mild and the city’s many parks and gardens are in full bloom. However, Wroclaw is also a destination that can be enjoyed year-round, with a variety of events and activities taking place throughout the year.

Q: How do I get to Wroclaw?
A: The main airport is Copernicus Airport Wrocław, which is well connected to other major airports in Europe, and from there you can take a bus or taxi to the city center. Alternatively, Wroclaw is also well connected to other parts of Poland by train and bus.

Q: What are the must-see attractions in Wroclaw?
A: Some of the must-see attractions in Wroclaw include the Old Town, the Wroclaw Market Square, the Town Hall, the Wroclaw Cathedral, the Centennial Hall, the National Museum, and the Panorama of Racławice.

Q: Are there any good restaurants or bars in Wroclaw?
A: Wroclaw is known for its excellent dining scene, with a wide variety of restaurants and bars to choose from, serving both traditional Polish cuisine and international dishes. Some popular options include local pubs, called “Piwnica” and trendy Restaurants.

Q: Is it easy to get around Wroclaw?
A: Wroclaw is a relatively small and compact city, making it easy to get around on foot. The city center is also well served by public transportation, including buses and trams, making it easy to reach all of the city’s main attractions.

Q: Are there any festivals or events happening in Wroclaw during my visit?
A: Wroclaw is a city that is known for its lively cultural scene, with a variety of events and festivals taking place throughout the year, including the Wroclaw Film Festival, the Wratislavia Cantans and the Wroclaw Shakespeare Festival. It’s a good idea to check the city’s calendar of events before your visit to see what’s happening during your stay.

Get your Guide – Tours & Experiences

Top 10 things to do in Warsaw

What to see, what to do

Things to do – updated 17 January 2023.

There’s a lot to see and do in the city. Here’s our list of the Top 10 things to do in Warsaw. Click on the links for further information or to book a tour.

1. POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews

This fascinating historical museum presents over 1,000 years of Jewish life in Poland. It allows visitors to explore past and present Jewish culture, providing a counterpoint to the stereotypes, xenophobia, and nationalistic prejudice threatening today’s societies. POLIN promotes openness, tolerance, and truth, contributing to the mutual understanding and respect between Polish and Jewish people.

Further information & book tickets

2. Wilanów Palace

Wilanów Palace is a former royal palace located 10km south of the city centre. It’s managed to survive Poland’s partitions and two World Wars and is one of Poland’s most important monuments. It was commissioned by King Jan III Sobieski in 1677 and serves as a reminder of the culture of the Polish state as it was before the misfortunes of the 18th century. The palace is one of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions.

3. Palace of Culture & Science

Love it or hate it, you can’t not see it. At 237m tall, it’s the second tallest building in Poland after Varso Tower. Since 1955, this socialist realist palace has dominated the city of Warsaw and today it houses various public and cultural institutions such as cinemas, theatres, libraries, sports clubs, university faculties and authorities of the Polish Academy of Sciences. Known as PKiN (the abbreviation of its full Polish name) and a lot of other less friendly names, the palace was a gift of friendship from the Soviet Union. Check out the 30th floor observation terrace for great views of the city.

4. Royal Castle

Royal Castle Warsaw is an exceptional copy of the original red-brick castle, which was destroyed by the Germans in WWII. The very first version of the castle was actually a wooden stronghold dating back to the 14th century built for the dukes of Mazovia and since then it has been the residence of Polish kings in addition to being the home of the president and also the seat of parliament. Back in the 17th century Royal Castle Warsaw was one of the most splendid royal palaces in Europe and today; it is filled with authentic furniture from that period and many original works of art. The highlights of the tour are the Great Apartments, which includes the Great Assembly Hall and lavishly decorated Throne Room and the King’s Apartments.

Further information

Lazienki Palace

5. Lazienki Park & Palace

Lazienki Palace is located in the beautiful Łazienki Park in Warsaw. This is the biggest and most popular park in the city, and it provides visitors with many things to explore. During a walk around the 76 hectares park, you’ll see the Art Nouveau Chopin monument, a classicist amphitheatre, summer houses, pavilions, cafes & restaurants, lakes, the English garden, an Old Orangery, palaces and much more. There’s so much to see that it is possible to spend the full day in the park. Lazienki Palace is a lovely neoclassical building originally built in the 17th century and is the former residence of King Stanisław August Poniatowski who was a great patron of the arts.

Further information

6. Historic Centre of Warsaw

The Historic Centre of Warsaw (Warsaw Old Town) is the oldest part of Warsaw. The heart of the area is the Old Town Market Place, which is very popular with tourists and contains many restaurants, cafés, bars and shops. Surrounding streets feature medieval architecture such as the city walls, St. John’s Cathedral and the Barbican which links the Old Town with Warsaw New Town. In excess of 85% of the historic centre of Warsaw was deliberately destroyed during World War II by Nazi Germany. A meticulous restoration of the Old Town took place after the war and this included its important religious buildings, the Royal Castle, Old Town Market, townhouses, and the circuit of the city walls. It is an outstanding example of a near-total reconstruction of a span of history covering the 13th to the 20th century.

Further information.

7. Żabińskis’ Villa

The story of Jan and Antonina Zabinski is one of extraordinary bravery, decency and humanitarian spirit at enormous personal risk in the most challenging circumstances possible. The largely accurate portrayal captured in Diane Ackerman’s book and subsequent 2017 Hollywood movie, The Zookeeper’s Wife, reached millions. But a great many more remain completely unaware of the extraordinary tale of personal heroism, bravery and human kindness that took place within the grounds of Warsaw Zoo during World War II, and their enormous legacy and lessons for wider humanity in rescuing more than 300 people, mostly Jews smuggled out of the Warsaw Ghetto, at enormous personal risk. Even fewer are aware that the little zookeeper’s villa at the centre of the story, in the middle of the Warsaw Zoo, still stands today. A powerful but hidden and relatively neglected symbol of human unity and shared purpose, cared for over the years by a small group of people associated with the zoo and with the Zabinski family, on something less than a shoe-string budget. The villa, where the Żabińskis lived and risked their lives by hiding Jews, is open for a guided tour, which is well worth doing.

8. Warsaw Rising Museum

The single largest military effort taken by any European resistance movement during World War II happened during the Warsaw Uprising, which was fought for 63 days with little outside support. The Uprising was led by the Polish Resistance Home Army in an attempt to liberate Warsaw from German occupation. If you are ever in Warsaw, a visit to the Rising Museum is highly recommended. The museum traces the history of the doomed Uprising using personal accounts, photos, film and interactive displays. If you want to do the museum and surrounding Freedom Park justice, you’ll need to put aside a whole day.

Further information.

Teatr Wielki

Image: Teatr Wielki

9. Teatr Wielki

The Grand Theatre is a theatre and opera complex situated on the historic Theatre Square. It is home to the Polish National Opera and Ballet companies and is one of the largest theatrical venues in the world, with a seating capacity of over 2,000. The building was destroyed during WWII and rebuilt to the original design in 1965.

Further information.

10. Copernicus Science Centre

Copernicus Science Centre is a science museum standing on the bank of the Vistula River containing over 450 interactive exhibits that enable visitors to single-handedly carry out experiments and discover the laws of science for themselves. The Centre is the largest institution of its type in Poland and one of the most advanced in Europe. In 2018, since its opening, it had been visited by over 8 million people.

Further information.

Warsaw Tours & Experiences

Get your Guide – Warsaw Tours & Experiences

Top 10 things to do in Tri-City

What to see, what to do

Things to do – updated 17 January 2023.

There’s a lot to see and do in the city. Here’s our list of the Top 10 things to do in Tri-City. Click on the links for further information or to book a tour.

1. Museum of WWII

The Museum of the Second World War is housed in a striking piece of modern architecture decorating the northern end of Gdańsk’s waterfront and is one of Gdańsk’s top tourist attractions. As the name suggests, the museum is dedicated to World War II, in particular how the conflict changed the lives of millions of Poles and focussing on the human suffering it caused. The museum is divided into different sections and includes exhibits of Nazi propaganda posters, a haunting Holocaust section, a Sherman tank, street mock-ups, uniforms, weapons, maps, films and much more. You’ll need a minimum of three hours to do the exhibits justice and note that the museum is not suitable for children of any age. There’s a 200-visitor limit to avoid queues so purchase your ticket in advance online.

Further information

European Solidarity Centre

Image: European Solidarity Centre

2. European Solidarity Centre

The European Solidarity Centre is a museum and library devoted to the history of Solidarity, the Polish trade union and civil resistance movement, and other opposition movements of Communist Eastern Europe. The museum opened on 31 August 2014, on the anniversary of the signing of the Gdańsk Agreement, the 1980 victory for striking shipyard workers which led to Solidarity’s foundation. The museum is housed in an award-winning piece of 21st century architecture designed to look like ships under construction, it is not to everyone’s taste. The exhibits examine Poland’s post-war fight for freedom and include real artefacts in addition to multimedia.

Further information

3. St Mary’s Church

St. Mary’s Church is a Brick Gothic Roman Catholic church located in the heart of Gdańsk’s Old Town. It is one of the biggest brick churches in the world, with a 78m high tower dominating the Gdańsk cityscape. There’s plenty to see including the high altar with its Gothic polyptych, the 15th century astronomical clock, the church tower with 405 steps, 300 grave slabs and many outstanding works of art.

Further information.

Sopot Pier

Image: Sopot Pier

4. Sopot Pier

Sopot Pier was developed as a pleasure pier and as a mooring point for cruise boats. It is the longest wooden pier in Europe at 515m and stretches out into the Bay of Gdańsk from the middle of Sopot beach. The pier houses various attractions along its length.

5. Crooked House

Krzywy Domek (Polish for “crooked house”) is an unusually shaped building in Sopot and is part of the Rezydent shopping centre. The warped and crooked structure was inspired by fairy tale illustrations and can be entered from either Monte Cassino or Morska Streets. Inside, you’ll find some worthwhile bars and restaurants.

6. Długi Targ

Długi Targ in Gdańsk, is one of the most notable tourist attractions of the city, situated between the end of Ulica Długa and the Brama Zielona. Historically, it was once the main city market, nowadays, visitors come to admire the architecture, the Neptune Fountain, the 1618 Golden House and the Green Gate built in the 1560s.

Dar Pomorza

Image: Dar Pomorza

7. Dar Pomorza

The Dar Pomorza is a Polish full-rigged sailing ship built in 1909 which is preserved in Gdynia as a museum ship. She has served as a sail training ship in Germany, France, and Poland. Dar Pomorza won the Cutty Sark Trophy in 1980. You can find her on the waterfront next to ORP Błyskawica. Visitors can go aboard to see the ship’s inner workings and read about its story on information panels.

Further information

ORP Błyskawica

Image: ORP Błyskawica

8. ORP Błyskawica

ORP Błyskawica (Lightning) is a Grom-class destroyer which served in the Polish Navy during World War II. It is the only Polish Navy ship to have been decorated with the Virtuti Militari, Poland’s highest military order for gallantry, and in 2012 was given the Pro Memoria Medal. Błyskawica is preserved as a museum ship in Gdynia and is the oldest preserved destroyer in the world. Błyskawica is moored next to the Dar Pomorza.

Further information

9. National Maritime Museum

The National Maritime Museum in Gdańsk is dedicated to gathering, researching and preserving artifacts and documents concerning ship transport, international trade, fishing and culture of people working at sea, and has a sprawling exhibition covering Gdańsk’s role as a Baltic seaport through the centuries. At the Maritime Cultural Centre, you can see a permanent exhibition called ‘People-Ships-Ports’. Other exhibitions include the MS Sołdek, the first vessel to be built at the Gdańsk shipyard, and the Żuraw, a 15th-century loading crane that was the biggest in its day. Further displays can be found at the granaries.

Further information.

10. Ulica Mariacka

Gdańsk’s most photogenic street complete with cobblestones stretching from the waterfront at St Mary’s Gate to St Mary’s Church was totally re-created after WWII in stunning detail. You’ll find a complete row of terraces, several artisan amber jewellery shops, cafes & bars.

FAQ

  1. What is the Tri-City in Poland?
  • The Tri-City is a metropolitan area in Poland, consisting of the three cities of Gdańsk, Gdynia, and Sopot. These three cities are located on the coast of the Baltic Sea and are known for their rich history, culture, and architecture.
  1. What are some popular tourist attractions in the Tri-City?
  • The Old Town of Gdańsk, and the home of the famous Amber Museum.
  • The Gdynia Marina and the Sopot Pier.
  • The European Solidarity Center, which is dedicated to the history of the Solidarity movement and the fall of communism in Poland.
  1. What is the best time to visit the Tri-City?
  • The best time to visit the Tri-City is during the summer months (June-August) when the weather is warm and pleasant.
  1. What is the currency used in the Tri-City?
  • The currency used in Poland is the Polish złoty (PLN).
  1. What is the language spoken in the Tri-City?
  • The official language spoken in the Tri-City and in Poland is Polish.
  1. Are there any good places to eat in the Tri-City?
  • The Tri-City offers a wide range of restaurants and cafes, offering everything from traditional Polish cuisine to international dishes. Some popular restaurants include “Kuchnia Staropolska” in Gdańsk, “Restauracja Pomorska” in Gdynia, and “Karczma Polska” in Sopot.
  1. Are there any good accommodation options in the Tri-City?
  • There are many accommodation options in the Tri-City, including hotels, hostels, and apartments.
  1. Are there any transportation options between the Tri-City?
  • The Tri-City is well connected by public transportation, including buses, trams, and trains. There is also a fast train connection between Gdansk and Sopot, called “SKM” which connect cities in 10-15 min.

Tri-City Tours & Experiences

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Top 10 things to do in Szczecin

What to see, what to do

Things to do – updated 17 January 2023.

There’s a lot to see and do in the city. Here’s our list of the Top things to do in Szczecin. Click on the links for further information or to book a tour & buy tickets.

1. Castle of the Pomeranian Dukes

You can’t miss the castle, it is a big structure, which looms over the Old Town. Originally built in the mid-14th century, the castle was extended until it reached its current form prior to being destroyed by Allied bombing in 1944 and then extensively restored. The castle now houses the Castle Museum exhibiting six spectacular sarcophagi of the Pomeranian dukes in addition to various temporary displays of art.

Further information

2. Karłowicz Philharmonic Szczecin

The Philharmonic is housed in a building, which was awarded the European Union Prize for Contemporary Architecture in 2015. The music venue covers an area of 13,000 square meters and contains a main concert hall with 1000 seats for concert-goers as well as a smaller hall with a capacity for 200 spectators and a number of conference rooms. In 1958 the Philharmonic was named after the renowned Polish classical composer and conductor Mieczysław Karłowicz. The hall is home to the Szczecin philharmonic orchestra but hosts many other performances.

Further information

3. Museum of Technology & Transport

Just outside of the city, you’ll find this interesting museum with exhibits of vehicles of all types, mostly produced in Poland by Szczecin-based company, Stoewer. Among the exhibits are communist-era cars, motorbikes, public transport vehicles and a six-wheel amphibious vehicle from the 1970s.

Further information.

4. Cathedral Basilica of St James

Szczecin’s 12th century cathedral is the largest church in Pomerania. You’ll find it on ul Wyszyńskiego downhill from the city centre. The cathedral was reconstructed in 1972 putting right damage caused by Red Army artillery back in 1945. It is not the prettiest cathedral by any stretch of the imagination; the views from the tower, the stained glass and the tiny crypt are the highlights.

Further information

5. History Museum

The History Museum is located in the 15th century Gothic Town Hall. It houses a number of permanent and temporary exhibits, many focussed on Szczecin’s history. You’ll find a remarkable collection of coins, banknotes and stamps from the region and an impressive collection of gold and silver from across Europe.

Further information.

6. Town Hall

Located in the Old Town district, the red-brick 15th century building was brought back to life in 1968. The Town Hall houses the History Museum.

7. Red Tourist Route

If you enjoy walking and sightseeing, then check out the Red Tourist Route. It takes you on a 7km circuit around town covering 42 important historic sights and buildings. You can pick up a map at any of the tourist offices.

8. The Zoo

Visit the Zoo – which is one of the oldest in Poland and home to a wide variety of animals and species.

Things to do in Szczecin

9. Cafes and restaurants

Relax in one of the many beautiful cafes and restaurants in the Old Town, and sample traditional Polish cuisine.

10. Boat ride

Take a boat ride on the Oder River.

FAQ

What is the best time to visit Szczecin?
The best time to visit Szczecin is in the summer months of June through August when the weather is warm and sunny.

What are some popular tourist attractions in Szczecin?
Some popular tourist attractions in Szczecin include Pomeranian Dukes’ Castle, the National Museum, the Szczecin Philharmonic, and the Old Town.

What is the currency in Szczecin?
The currency in Szczecin is the Polish Złoty (PLN).

What language is spoken in Szczecin?
The official language spoken in Szczecin is Polish.

What is the public transportation like in Szczecin?
Szczecin has a well-developed public transportation system that includes buses, trams, and a light rail system.

Are there any good restaurants or cafes in Szczecin?
Szczecin has many good restaurants and cafes, offering a variety of cuisines, including traditional Polish dishes.

Are there any good hotels or places to stay in Szczecin?
Szczecin has a wide variety of accommodation options, including hotels, hostels, and apartments.

Are there any good shopping places in Szczecin?
Szczecin has a number of shopping centers and markets, including Galeria Kaskada and Galeria Szczecińska.

Are there any good parks or green areas in Szczecin?
Szczecin has a number of parks and green areas, including Puszcza Bukowa and Park Kasprowicza.

Is Szczecin a safe place to visit?
Szczecin is generally considered to be a safe place to visit. However, as with any city, it is always a good idea to be aware of your surroundings and take precautions to protect yourself and your belongings.

Tours & experiences

Top 10 things to do in Toruń

What to see, what to do

Things to do – updated 17 January 2023.

There’s a lot to see and do in the city. Here’s our list of the Top 10 things to do in Toruń. Click on the links for further information or to book a tour & buy tickets.

1. Cathedral of SS John the Baptist & John the Evangelist

A former main parish church of the Old Town of Toruń, this huge Gothic cathedral started life in 1260 but was not completed until the end of the 15th century. There’s a lot to see including painted decorations depicting the Crucifixion and the Last Judgement dating from the 14th century, a 13th century baptismal font (which was supposedly used to baptise Nicolaus Copernicus), a 15th century clock and the Tuba Dei, a massive bell cast in 1500.

2. Old Town Hall

The Old Town Hall is a Gothic building created in stages during the 13th & 14th centuries and hasn’t changed much since then with the exception of some later Renaissance additions. The structure is one of the most outstanding examples of medieval city architecture in central Europe. You’ll find a museum there today with exhibits of Gothic art including both paintings and stained glass, local crafts dating from the 17th & 18th centuries and a gallery of Polish art.

Further information.

3. Gingerbread Museum

Located in the Old Town, take part in an interactive exhibit where you can learn about the history of Toruń gingerbread and have a go at making your own under the instruction of a gingerbread master.

Further information.

4. Teutonic Castle Ruins

The majority of the castle was destroyed during an uprising in 1454, when the local townspeople revolted against the Teutonic Order. During the 1960s excavation work uncovered underground chambers, which have been opened up to visitors. There’s a few things to see other than the ruins.

Further information.

5. House under the Star

Embellishing the Old Town Square, the House Under the Star is Baroque house built in the 1200s with a 17th century façade. The stuccoed structure takes its name from the golden star atop the gable that was put there during its facelift in 1697. Inside, you’ll find a small branch of the Regional Museum with exhibits of Asian art including Chinese pottery and Japanese swords.

Further information.

6. Medieval Walls

The walls date all the way back to the middle of the 13th century and were extended and reinforced in the late Middle Ages. Today, you can see large portions of the wall, which have been preserved in addition to nine gates and towers, which are still standing.

7. Leaning Tower of Toruń

One of Toruń’s most photographed buildings is the crooked tower (leaning tower), whose top and bottom is out of kilter by 1.5m. You’ll find it on the southwest corner of Toruń’s Medieval defences.

8. Nicolaus Copernicus Monument

A popular meeting point located in front of the Town Hall is the statue of Nicolaus Copernicus. The statue is twice life size and stands on a 5m pedestal. It was raised in 1853.

9. New Town Square

The New Town Square isn’t really new considering that it was laid out in 1264. It was once the centre of a separate town with its own town hall; however this was pulled down in the 15th century when the two towns merged. You’ll find a mix of styles ranging from Gothic to Renaissance, Baroque and Neoclassical.

10. Cosmopolis Fountain

You’ll find the fountain on the western side of the Old Town next to the university’s Harmonica building. The fountain was switched on in 2008 and is a homage to Copernicus. Its 113 jets plot the orbits of the planets, Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn with a taller central jet 5m high representing the sun. The summer light and sound shows between 9pm and midnight are worth seeing.

FAQ

  1. What are some popular tourist attractions in Toruń?
  • The Old Town, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the Gothic St. Mary’s Church.
  • The Toruń City Hall and the Copernicus Monument.
  • The Gingerbread Museum, which offers a glimpse into the history and production of Toruń’s famous gingerbread.
  1. What is the best time to visit Toruń?
  • The best time to visit Toruń is during the summer months (June-August) when the weather is warm and pleasant.
  1. What is the currency used in Toruń?
  • The currency used in Poland is the Polish złoty (PLN).
  1. What is the language spoken in Toruń?
  • The official language spoken in Toruń and in Poland is Polish.
  1. Are there any good places to eat in Toruń?
  • Toruń has a wide range of restaurants and cafes, offering everything from traditional Polish cuisine to international dishes. Some popular restaurants include “Pod Ratuszem”, “Karczma Polska”, and “Bar Mleczny Pod Arkadami”.
  1. Are there any good accommodation options in Toruń?
  • There are many accommodation options in Toruń, including hotels, hostels, and apartments. Some popular options include “Hotel Bulwar”, “Hotel Copernicus”, and “Hotel Pod Orlem”.
  1. Are there any transportation options from the airport to Toruń?
  • The nearest airport to Toruń is Bydgoszcz Ignacy Paderewski Airport which is about 30 km from Toruń city center. You can take a taxi or rent a car to get to Toruń. There is also a bus service which runs directly from the airport to Toruń.